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Routes in Free Form Wall

Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cougar V3 6A
Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guilty By Association S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maximum Security S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Math Required aka No Vacancy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Chimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Darryl Roth, Rich Aschert, Dave Dangle, 1988
Page Views: 1,449 total, 7/month
Shared By: montay on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Another fine line at one of the better walls at Shelf. This route used to be 12b in Van Horn's old book, but has been slightly downrated. Perhaps (much like the Mutant on Incredible Hulk boulder) the traffic over the years has taken the edge off of a few holds. God knows there are a few routes at Shelf where the crux is taking the pain.

To find this route, hike up the Sand Gulch canyon to the Freeform Wall. Towards the left end of the wall is a bolted chimney with red homemade hangers. This is Barney (5.9). Two bolted lines to the right is Helter Skelter. There is a very slight V-notch near the second bolt.

This is another route that can really sap your strength, especially if you don't stand up on your feet.

Crank past 7 bolts worth of very nice moves. If the razor crimp near the top is still hones, you will be the first to know. Have fun.

Protection

7 bolts and anchors.

Photos

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Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Excellent line. TALL-MAN BETA: if you have the wingspan, pushing directly through the bolt line (b/t bolt 5 and 6?) is an incredible reach to improbable thin crimp with your right, cranking on the sidepull edge with your left.

I used my partner's beautifully clever beta getting to the last bolt, requiring small crimpin' and crossi'n.

Awesomeness. Helter Skelter will make you feel like a rock star. Jun 15, 2009
Chris Archer
  5.12a
Chris Archer  
  5.12a
If there is a 5.11 way to climb this route, I'd be interested in hearing what it is. It's probably not 12b as originally rated if you veer left at mid-height into the juggy corner, but the moves at the second-to-last bolt are as hard as many Shelf 12a's, and tricky to read. Mar 11, 2004