Type: Sport
FA: Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, and Darryl Roth
Page Views: 11,719 total · 53/month
Shared By: montay on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

153 Opinions

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An exceptional route that will demand strength, technique, and innovation. This is a Shelf Road top 10 (IMHO).

To find this route, hike up to the Free Form Wall in the Sand Gulch canyon. Towards the far left end of this wall is a yawning chimney with red home made hangers. This bolted chimney is "Barney (5.9)". to the left of this is "Freeform". It is noticeable by the steep, somewhat left-leaning arete-like prow at the top.

Chalk up, load yer guns, and keep the children off the street.

Cruise upwards past the first 4 bolts on fun face moves. Be sure to save most of your ammo for the top. Milk the rest at the beginning of the business (if you need to). Fire up through the last 4 bolts on crimps and little pockets. It is a wee bit steep through here, so do whatever you can to help your arms out. This part begs for technical footwork and body position. Good luck!


8 bolts and anchors.


From Bill Ballace, towards the left of Free Form Wall, this is the proudest line on the wall. It ascends the obvious and gently overhanging, rounded prow up top.
Best .12a at Shelf! Reachy, thin and nasty on the initial slab, but outstanding moves follow: powerful and technical pockets and an in-your-face crux when you pull the final bulge. Nov 6, 2001
Awesome route! I got denied both times I tried it, but it's still one of my favorite examples of the genre anywhere. Do this route! Nov 27, 2001
Agreed...one of the finest 12a's at Shelf! Feb 25, 2003
Andrew Iltis
Denver, CO
Andrew Iltis   Denver, CO
This fantastic route is broken into two sections: a tricky slab, and a rounded overhanging prow, separated by a monster rest. Great onsight potential if you can sequence the upper pocket section just right on your first go. Hint: If you give up the onsite, you can take a look at the upper sequence from the line to the right of Free Form called Barney (pumpy 5.9). Jun 12, 2007
Noah G
Alma, Co
Noah G   Alma, Co
Classic and a benchmark for the grade. Ever-increasing difficulty to the top and sequency at the bulge. Sep 28, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
I agree with others, this is an awesome route. A tricky slab down low, with a powerful slightly overhanging face topping out over a bulge to finish. Power, balance, sequence and technique are all needed for this route. Definitely the best .12 I've been on at Shelf, although I haven't sampled many. Nov 1, 2009
I noticed a bunch of pink tick marks all over this route the other day. Please don't use colored chalk to tick every hand hold and foot hold and not bother to brush them off after you've finished. The crux sequence isn't even very long on this climb. If you can't do 10ft of climbing without having every hand hold a foot hold ticked with colored chalk, then you really need to get out of the gym more often. I did my best to brush them off, but it definitely leaves a noticeable pink smear on the rock. Nov 11, 2013

A Shelf classic, and for good reason. This route has it all - funky cobble geodes, sweet pockets, techy face, steep headwall. Way fun. Nov 18, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I remember this being a very fun route. It felt like 12a, although easier than Gym Arete, which might be a sandbag for the area. Jan 19, 2015
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Overall very good climb! Definitely one of the best (and the softest, in my opinion) 12 at Shelf. Not as hard as any other 12a's at Shelf for sure but a must do! Mar 12, 2015
Skyler B
Fort Collins, CO
Skyler B   Fort Collins, CO
Beautiful! Great pockets and amazing movement! In my opinion a little easy for 5.12 but nonetheless an amazing route! Mar 17, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Pretty good route. I don't know if I would go as far as saying top 10 at Shelf, but it's certainly quality.... Apr 10, 2016
Jason Giblin
Boulder, CO
Jason Giblin   Boulder, CO
Amazing route! One of the best I've ever been on. The beginning is thin and can spit you off if you're not on your game, but the real business is the moves up the gently overhanging prow and over the small roof. The tricky part can be finding the right beta for you. There are numerous pockets to use, most of them bad, and there are many different sequences you can use. Technical footwork is key. Do this route! Nov 5, 2017
Micah Tedeschi
Micah Tedeschi   Denver
Route is absolutely amazing. It requires very precise beta. So many bad pockets makes it difficult to decide your beta and you spend a lot of time messing around on bad holds. If you know the beta the route is a bit easier than 12a, but if you spend too much time messing around it gets real hard real fast. 1 day ago