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Barbecueing Traditions
5.12-,
Sport,
Avg: 3 from 6
votes
FA: Darryl Roth, Bob D'Antonio, & Bob Murray
Colorado
> Canon City
> Shelf Rd
> Bank
> Cactus Rose Cliff
Description
This is an excellent and sequential route. It features steep crimpin' and sharp pocket pullin' (big surprise). The technical crux is around the third clip, crimping on a gnarly, slippery sidepull. It is somewhat reachy. It eases off a little bit after that, with a shake out rest followed by another sting-in-the-tail set of thin balance moves getting to the intimidating last clip (I used a looong sling for this one). Finish with jugs to the anchors.
The guidebook calls this 12a/b, but I would lean more on the "b" side, IMO. For crude comparison sake, I thought this route was harder than
Freeform,
Phase Dance,
Helter Skelter, or Sleight of Hand (in Ten Sleep). About the same or harder than
Little Mecca or
Happiness (Ten Sleep).
Location
Protection
Half a dozen bolts or so. A long draw is helpful on the last clip. I stick clipped the first one.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the final singe-in-the-tail move. Photo by Derek Lawrence.
Salt Lake City