Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mike Strassman, Alex Kiss
Page Views: 1,418 total · 11/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

This demanding climb is interesting, varied, and well protected. Look for the prominent, left-facing corner system that switches cracks about 25 feet up. It is best to establish the belayer at the ledge at the base of the steep climbing. Some climbers will do this route in two pitches, stopping at the infamous sudden death belay block (which is well-attached to the wall.) This is an awkward and uncomfortable belay station, and one of the two following options is suggested. The best way to do this climb is in one pitch to the top. This requires a number of long runners, and thoughtful placements to reduce rope-drag. The other option is to belay approximately 65 feet above the ground, before the traverse right and up to the sudden death belay. This belay stance is small, but good protection is available. Either way, this is an excellent climb and should not be missed. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)

Protection

Pro to 3", anchors.

location

See Squeezing the Lemmon.

Photos

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
quite a demanding and all around excellent climb. be wary that it's easy to get lost on this thing so make sure you know where you're going. Sep 28, 2008
E IV
Las Vegas, NV
 
E IV   Las Vegas, NV
 
WOW! Very good climb! Sustained, great pro, fun climbing! A must do route! Aug 16, 2009
ryan dillon
Tucson, AZ.
ryan dillon   Tucson, AZ.
Found a pair of glasses today at the base of the slab up to the route. If your looking for them I have them. Jun 16, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Lots of long runners and this is a great single pitch. My belayer was tied in and climbed up to the very start of the route and I was able to lower off with a 70M rope. May 30, 2011