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Routes in Wall of the Trundling Trolls

All Things Considered S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Asgard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best of Both Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Business as Usual T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chicken Little S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Precedents T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Digital Alarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eggashegadrae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Fear of Lurking S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Few Species T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexible Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Furchrissakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hall of the Mountain King T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hostile Takeover T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hung Like a Troll T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper Sloth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
If I Had a Hammer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Internet Troll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jerk Whisperer, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Player Hater's Club T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Run Like Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidebottom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky is Falling, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip Service S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slot, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spew Feces T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stalker, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stranger in a Strange Land S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sudden Death T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Take Apart the Robots T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Talk of the Nation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tao of Choy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That's Entertainment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trollkind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tyr T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valhalla T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
You're Fired! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: SA, Mark Colby
Page Views: 111 total, 1/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This fun moderate crack route starts below the prominent “nose” that is formed by an obvious flake protrusion in the crack approximately 20 feet above the ground. This line is located in a black water-stained section of rock, and is a right-facing corner for its first 40 feet. Clean, well-protected climbing leads to the crux fingercrack, then a ledge. Step slightly right and up the obvious left-facing corner (smaller than the prominent left-facing dihedral found a few feet further right) and continue to a small roof about 30 feet higher. Move left around this to the final right-leaning, left-facing corner, and the anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Note - This was the first ascentionist’s very first attempt at establishing a new climb back in 1982. Unfortunately, he was deceived by the crag’s chief developer, Mike Strassman, into thinking that the crack had already been climbed, and was repeating a “5.7” route. Forty feet up the route, trying to excavate decent protection from the grassy crack, a large loose block was encountered, and the would-be first ascentionist was gripped by the fear of riding the bock to the ground. It was at this point that Mike walked over grinning like the Cheshire Cat, and announced that nobody had actually climbed the route and it would be a first ascent for the now quaking leader. Upon informing Mike that he had put the inexperienced leader into a life-threatening situation with his deception, Mike shrugged his shoulders and proclaimed, “Do you want to live forever?” in his best English accent. This question was promptly answered by the sheepish leader’s hasty down-lead of the route back to the ground. Thus was the darker side of Mike’s personality revealed for all to ponder.

Approximately ten years later, just before the intensive sport climbing development up canyon at Munchkinland, the more seasoned leader decided to finish the job and lead the dirty, dangerous crack to try and make amends for the past. The lead went well, but the filthy crack system was not worth reporting, and went forgotten until recently when a thorough cleaning unearthed a high quality route with an anchor placed at the end of the interesting climbing. Now this route can be enjoyed for the quality line that it is, and Mike’s original vision is complete!

Protection

Pro to 3", anchors.

location

First route just downhill and right of Gully (see Squeezing the Lemmon.)

Photos

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
really cool stemming/crack move at the crux. finish on the tao of choy crack after the ledge for what i would consider a 3-star climb. Apr 6, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Neat story. Thanks for sharing. May 31, 2011