Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: SA, Mark Colby
Page Views: 858 total · 4/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

This fun moderate crack route starts below the prominent “nose” that is formed by an obvious flake protrusion in the crack approximately 20 feet above the ground. This line is located in a black water-stained section of rock, and is a right-facing corner for its first 40 feet. Clean, well-protected climbing leads to the crux fingercrack, then a ledge. Step slightly right and up the obvious left-facing corner (smaller than the prominent left-facing dihedral found a few feet further right) and continue to a small roof about 30 feet higher. Move left around this to the final right-leaning, left-facing corner, and the anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Note - This was the first ascentionist’s very first attempt at establishing a new climb back in 1982. Unfortunately, he was deceived by the crag’s chief developer, Mike Strassman, into thinking that the crack had already been climbed, and was repeating a “5.7” route. Forty feet up the route, trying to excavate decent protection from the grassy crack, a large loose block was encountered, and the would-be first ascentionist was gripped by the fear of riding the bock to the ground. It was at this point that Mike walked over grinning like the Cheshire Cat, and announced that nobody had actually climbed the route and it would be a first ascent for the now quaking leader. Upon informing Mike that he had put the inexperienced leader into a life-threatening situation with his deception, Mike shrugged his shoulders and proclaimed, “Do you want to live forever?” in his best English accent. This question was promptly answered by the sheepish leader’s hasty down-lead of the route back to the ground. Thus was the darker side of Mike’s personality revealed for all to ponder.

Approximately ten years later, just before the intensive sport climbing development up canyon at Munchkinland, the more seasoned leader decided to finish the job and lead the dirty, dangerous crack to try and make amends for the past. The lead went well, but the filthy crack system was not worth reporting, and went forgotten until recently when a thorough cleaning unearthed a high quality route with an anchor placed at the end of the interesting climbing. Now this route can be enjoyed for the quality line that it is, and Mike’s original vision is complete!

Protection Suggest change

Pro to 3", chains with mussy hooks, updated 2023, CASA/ASCA 

location Suggest change

First route just downhill and right of Gully (see Squeezing the Lemmon.)