Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: GSm, Michael Jimerson
Page Views: 99 total · 1/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

A fun, sustained route that packs a lot of good climbing into the first pitch. Begin off the same small, high ledge as for Sudden Death. Look for the attractive, set of shallow, white left-facing corners that indicate the start. The last third of the first pitch and the entire second pitch are not worth doing, and the anchor station located just above the crux dihedral is the recommended belay/lowering station. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Protection

Pro to 3", anchors.

location

See Squeezing the Lemmon.

Photos

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Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.10-
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.10-
The first 25 feet of this route have good climbing, but questionable pro in friable rock.

Instead, I recommend starting on "That's Entertainment" for 30 feet or so, then (instead of continuing up to the bolted section on that route) moving up and left on intricate moves with less than obvious, but good gear in very good rock, into the upper V-corner of "Balin..." P1 (the description above calls this corner the crux). This yields a sustained, challenging, tricky to protect but well-protected all-trad pitch on good rock. 2 stars at least if done this way. Nov 14, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
what charles said, but i'd recommend clipping the first bolt with a long runner then traversing directly left into the corner to skip the tricky gear.

i'm not sure the corner is the crux. i did the linkup today and it couldn't have been harder than 10-. that said, it's pretty tricky if you don't find the right sequence. Mar 30, 2015
Dj telle
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Dj telle   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
i thought the pro on this was quite good? There might be a tricky section for gear but its all there. The direct start is the way to go imo Oct 1, 2016