Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: SA, Abishek Chandrashakur
Page Views: 530 total · 4/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

The name refers to a hilarious skit on The Dave Chappelle Show, as well as a general observation on its relevance to climbers and their insular world.
Although the first pitch is short, it packs a lot of hard moves into 50 feet of climbing, and is highly recommended even if the second pitch is skipped. Start between Trollkind and Valhalla at a small roof. Both pitches have been lead as one, and make a fine challenge. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 – Power up through technical, strenuous moves on excellent rock to the anchors. 5.11, 7 bolts, 50 feet.

Pitch 2 – Climb up into the right-leaning Trollkind weakness above and follow it for approximately 25 feet. A separate crack system is then within reach out left, but is strenuous to attain. Although this crack system is only a few feet away from the main Trollkind weakness, it has separate protection and puts the leader in position to stand on the obvious horn above that is visible all the way from the ground. A reach out left to a good hold achieves a bolt, followed by hard moves up the blunt arête. A second bolt above, and a few slung chickenheads, protect the remainder of the pitch to reach the anchors on Business as Usual. 5.10, 2 bolts, pro to 2”, 80 feet.

Protection

Bolts, pro to 2", anchors.

Photos

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Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
The first pitch is great fun. The climbing is thought provoking, indirect and varied. Jun 4, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Yeah the usual face climbing moves won't get you up this climb..

Technical stemming, palming, traversing, a bit of everything... Jun 6, 2011