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Routes in Wall of the Trundling Trolls

All Things Considered S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Asgard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best of Both Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Business as Usual T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chicken Little S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Precedents T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Digital Alarm T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eggashegadrae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Fear of Lurking S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Few Species T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexible Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Furchrissakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hall of the Mountain King T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hostile Takeover T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hung Like a Troll T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper Sloth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
If I Had a Hammer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Internet Troll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jerk Whisperer, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Player Hater's Club T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Run Like Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidebottom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky is Falling, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip Service S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slot, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spew Feces T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stalker, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stranger in a Strange Land S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Death T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Take Apart the Robots T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Talk of the Nation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tao of Choy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That's Entertainment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trollkind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tyr T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valhalla T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
You're Fired! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 185 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Steiger, Mike Strassman
Page Views: 92 total · 1/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The nightmarish loose block that used to block safe entry to this crack system has been trundled, leaving a high-quality first pitch. Some additional cleaning also helped! The first pitch is well worth climbing, while the second is quite disappointing in that a section of nasty bird poop must be traversed past under the roof. Perhaps the best, and most direct way to finish this route would be to turn the upper roof on Valhalla. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 – Gain the right-leaning crack system that starts out with some closely spaced left-facing corners. Moderate climbing leads to a rest below a steep section of rock. Continuously difficult moves lead to a small stance out right on a chickenhead with a bolted anchor station. Belay here instead of the lower ledge with the frightening loose block (and poorly directionalized anchor placements.) (An easy, well-protected traverse straight left from approximately 10 feet below the chickenhead stance, followed by a few moves up, gains the bolted belay/rappel station for Business As Usual. This allows a rappel point that can reach a lower rappel station so that only one rope is required to descend.) 5.10, pro to 3½”, 125 feet.

Pitch 2 – Continue up the crack to the large roof. Traverse left approximately 30 feet until the roof can be turned. A short section of steep, but easy face leads to the top. (Not a recommended pitch.) 5.9, pro to 3½”, 60 feet.

Protection

Pro to 3.5", anchors for pitch 1 only.

location

See Squeezing the Lemmon.

Photos

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First pitch goes on and on, and was more in my face than I thought it would be. Good value, old school 5.10. Crux seemed pretty un-Troll Wall-like. Pretty cool.

The traverse from the anchor and rapping off Business as Usual is good info. We rapped from the Trollkind anchor, and required some shenanigans getting to an intermediate anchor. Apr 21, 2013

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