Type: Trad, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: SA, Abishek Chandrashakur, Justin Keptuch
Page Views: 71 total · 1/month
Shared By: RyanJohnson on Mar 24, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description


Pitch 1 – Well protected seams and cracks, culminating in face moves with two bolts, lead to the anchors. 5.9, 2 bolts, pro to 2”, 60 feet.

Pitch 2 – Step right from the belay and up to the right-facing corner. Climb this to a stance below the overhanging headwall. Bolts protect a technical, overhanging sequence, and lead to the second anchor. 5.11, 5 bolts, pro to 1”, 50 feet.

Location

Located between Balin Goes to Hollywood and The Slot, this fun line is worth the time, if just for the first, moderate pitch. When doing the entire route, it is recommended to be lead in one pitch, if thoughtfully long runnered in the vicinity of the first belay station.

Protection

Pro to 2 inch, draws for bolts.

Photos

The protection is a bit poor in the first 20 feet. Mar 26, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
Weird, I found the gear to be pretty good and I'm usually quite timid about sketchy gear. IIRC the bottom takes nuts pretty well.

Also, clip the first bolt with a long runner then move left into the awesome upper corner of Balin Goes to Hollywood for a much moar funner variation. Mar 27, 2015