Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Steiger, Mike Strassman
Page Views: 399 total · 3/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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Apparently there was at least one scary loose block on this line when first ascended, but now the rock integrity is quite safe due to a thorough cleaning. This final scrubbing transformed this route into a recommended climb. Locate the obvious clean right-facing corner of Best of Both Worlds, and climb the weakness 10 feet to its right that heads for a prominent shallow left-facing dihedral. This route has been lead as one long pitch, but requires thoughtful long runnering on the protection in the final roof area (both the traverse and turning the lip) to reduce rope-drag. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 – Scramble up the slab, engage the protectable weakness for 20 feet, then step right into the long, obvious right-leaning, left-facing corner. Higher up, the corner turns into a short off-width. Instead of ascending the entire 12 feet of off-width, only climb the first 6 feet, then traverse straight right to a small stance with good protection where a belay can be established (some parties ascend the entire off-width, then step right to a nice belay ledge that requires time-consuming efforts to construct a comfortable belay. Alternately, before entering the off-width, traverse right under a small roof to the anchors on Dead Precedents.) 5.8, pro to 3”, 95 feet.

Pitch 2 – Difficult moves straight up lead to a small right-facing corner that ends at the big roof. Traverse straight right under the large roof to a point where it becomes much smaller. Turn the roof on knobs and continue to the top anchors. 5.9, pro to 2”, 55 feet.

Variation - Sloth 5.10d *
This is a variant finish to Flexible Flyer, and takes on the steep cracks and roof up and left of the belay stance. Easy climbing above the belay in semi-fractured rock leads to a traverse left to a short, poorly protected left-facing corner. At the top of the corner where it meets the roof there is a good TCU placement out left. The remainder of the strenuous hand traverse up and left is well-protected by a #3 and a #3.5 Camalot (two #3 Camalots will suffice.) The final roof/overhang is turned on big holds. Although the Steiger guidebook stated that this route was “entitled for the South American tree-dweller the leader will probably emulate to solve the crux,” it is highly advised for the leader to move quickly through the crux sequence to avoid getting pumped-out! Pro to 4”, 45 feet.


Pro to 2".


See Squeezing the Lemmon.


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