Avg: 2.2 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||John Steiger, Mike Strassman|
|Page Views:||399 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Pitch 1 Scramble up the slab, engage the protectable weakness for 20 feet, then step right into the long, obvious right-leaning, left-facing corner. Higher up, the corner turns into a short off-width. Instead of ascending the entire 12 feet of off-width, only climb the first 6 feet, then traverse straight right to a small stance with good protection where a belay can be established (some parties ascend the entire off-width, then step right to a nice belay ledge that requires time-consuming efforts to construct a comfortable belay. Alternately, before entering the off-width, traverse right under a small roof to the anchors on Dead Precedents.) 5.8, pro to 3, 95 feet.
Pitch 2 Difficult moves straight up lead to a small right-facing corner that ends at the big roof. Traverse straight right under the large roof to a point where it becomes much smaller. Turn the roof on knobs and continue to the top anchors. 5.9, pro to 2, 55 feet.
Variation - Sloth 5.10d *
This is a variant finish to Flexible Flyer, and takes on the steep cracks and roof up and left of the belay stance. Easy climbing above the belay in semi-fractured rock leads to a traverse left to a short, poorly protected left-facing corner. At the top of the corner where it meets the roof there is a good TCU placement out left. The remainder of the strenuous hand traverse up and left is well-protected by a #3 and a #3.5 Camalot (two #3 Camalots will suffice.) The final roof/overhang is turned on big holds. Although the Steiger guidebook stated that this route was entitled for the South American tree-dweller the leader will probably emulate to solve the crux, it is highly advised for the leader to move quickly through the crux sequence to avoid getting pumped-out! Pro to 4, 45 feet.