Type: Trad, 185 ft (56 m), 2 pitches
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger
Page Views: 2,596 total · 14/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Another Catalina super-classic! Although both pitches have been lead as one, most people will do this climb in two pitches. Superb climbing on high-quality stone makes this a must-do route! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 – Begin climbing in the prominent right-leaning crack that turns into an obvious undercling roof approximately 40 feet above the ground. Ascend this feature, turn the undercling at its right end, and continue up to a small belay ledge. 5.11-, pro to 4½”, 95 feet.

Pitch 2 – Step up into clean cracks in a shallow recess, then continue up into the prominent left-arching corner. Look for an obvious way to turn the roof above the corner (be careful when placing protection in the highly fractured rock forming the roof), then continue to the top. 5.10-, pro to 3½”, 90 feet.

Variation – Valhalla Direct 5.10 ***
An alternate start begins in the crack system located directly below the right end of the obvious undercling. A well-protected start over a small roof leads to a right-leaning section of crack that pinches off (5.10) 15 feet below the undercling of Valhalla. Originally rated 5.10R, this start is no longer runout due to the use of modern small cams. This safe, alternate start is very high quality, and a great way to climb all of Valhalla in one long pitch. Note: As of the summer of 2005 there was an "obstruction" directly below the 2nd pitch roof finish of Valhalla. Combining this obstacle with the dubious nature of the protection in the highly fractured roof, an alternative finish was climbed using one bolt to exit the prominent left-leaning corner that constitutes the upper section of pitch 2 of Valhalla. By leaving the corner 15 feet below the "obstruction", a strenuous hand traverse (protected by the bolt at chest level) leads right and up (5.10) to a ledge bearing a belay/rappel anchor.

Protection Suggest change

Pro to 4.5".

location Suggest change

See Squeezing the Lemmon.