Type: Trad, 185 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger
Page Views: 1,589 total · 12/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008 with updates from Charles Vernon
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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Another Catalina super-classic! Although both pitches have been lead as one, most people will do this climb in two pitches. Superb climbing on high-quality stone makes this a must-do route! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 – Begin climbing in the prominent right-leaning crack that turns into an obvious undercling roof approximately 40 feet above the ground. Ascend this feature, turn the undercling at its right end, and continue up to a small belay ledge. 5.11-, pro to 4½”, 95 feet.

Pitch 2 – Step up into clean cracks in a shallow recess, then continue up into the prominent left-arching corner. Look for an obvious way to turn the roof above the corner (be careful when placing protection in the highly fractured rock forming the roof), then continue to the top. 5.10-, pro to 3½”, 90 feet.

Variation – Valhalla Direct 5.10 ***
An alternate start begins in the crack system located directly below the right end of the obvious undercling. A well-protected start over a small roof leads to a right-leaning section of crack that pinches off (5.10) 15 feet below the undercling of Valhalla. Originally rated 5.10R, this start is no longer runout due to the use of modern small cams. This safe, alternate start is very high quality, and a great way to climb all of Valhalla in one long pitch. Note: As of the summer of 2005 there was an "obstruction" directly below the 2nd pitch roof finish of Valhalla. Combining this obstacle with the dubious nature of the protection in the highly fractured roof, an alternative finish was climbed using one bolt to exit the prominent left-leaning corner that constitutes the upper section of pitch 2 of Valhalla. By leaving the corner 15 feet below the "obstruction", a strenuous hand traverse (protected by the bolt at chest level) leads right and up (5.10) to a ledge bearing a belay/rappel anchor.


Pro to 4.5".


See Squeezing the Lemmon.


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Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
Stunning route! With regards to the location of the route, check out the photoguide or pdf topo. This route and Business as Usual are among my favorites on this wall. Oct 7, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Two good micro cams (Metolius 0 and 00 I think) and a stopper before the traverse made it a lot easier to commit to the moves. Small stoppers and a brass nut helped after the traverse. May 30, 2011
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
Wasn't sure where the first pitch was supposed to end. I ended up climbing most of the second pitch before running out of slings and gear (My last few pieces were extended by linking cams together). I eventually decided to traverse directly left to the anchors for Business as Usual. The rope drag at this point was pretty horrible. Still not sure where the first pitch ends and whether it is a gear or bolted belay. On another note, the route is really fun, especially the traverse and the flake/crack climbing after the roof (which may or may not be part of the first pitch).
The second pitch could definitely be linked so long as long runners are used thoughtfully down low. If you intend to link them you'll probably want ~15 slings. Jul 20, 2015