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Areas in Munchkinland Area

Lurking Troll Tower???? 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Roman Baths, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Towers, The 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Wall of the Marching Munchkins 3 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Wall of the Trundling Trolls 36 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 45
Wall of the Waltzing Witches 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 7,012 ft
GPS: 32.389, -110.717 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 47,170 total, 322/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Dec 8, 2005 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Wall of the Waltzing Witches:
10 routes, Moderate sport, faces about 20 degrees south of east, gets shady around 12-1.

The Towers:
12 routes, Mostly easy sport.

Wall of the Marching Munchkins:
20 routes, Moderate to hard sport.

Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs:
10 routes, Hard sport, a few multipitch.

The above 3 walls face about 20 degrees north of west, in the shade until about 12-1

Wall of the Trundling Trolls:
About 45 routes, several moderate to hard sport but mostly moderate to hard trad/mixed. The main face is almost facing directly east, gets shade around 12 or 1. The upper right face has good shade during 11-1 maybe.

General Description:
This popular area is mostly sport from 5.4 to 5.12. Close to 100 routes total. A few of the easier climbs on the Towers are pretty long. There are a lot of routes in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. Mostly straight up to slightly overhanging with good variety to the holds. There are even a couple of 2nd pitches to the climbs on the Dwarf Wall. It usually cools off here pretty quickly approaching the winter season due to the abundant shade. The Troll Wall is known to be quite high quality for trad. The season is roughly April to October, chasing the sun and shade can be done to satisfy the season. Windy days can be quite cold and scary due to potential tree fall(and often likely/observed).

Crowds:
There can be quite a few people here on weekends, but there is usually enough to climb, you might have to wait if you are getting on some of the more popular routes, the Witch Wall may be a bit neglected but fun for moderate stuff. During the week, you probably won't see many people.

Gear:
10 quickdraws is enough for most of the shorter sport routes, 16 draws gets you up almost anything probably. Standard Lemmon rack is good for the trad: full set of nuts, full set of cams(micro to #3 camalot, you might find a spot for a #4), and a few extendable slings.

Getting There

Drive to the end of the Rose Canyon road and park in one of the large lots, there is also some parking along the road if it is crowded. I think as long as you park by a blue dumpster, you are ok.

(Edit: Finding the trail: Ideally you should be parked in one of the 2 lots above the lake(not down by the lake), you should see picnic pavillions(north-ish, away from the lake, on your right as you drive in), a snack bar(on the right as you drive in from the road) and an amphitheatre( kinda down by the stream on the left as you first drive into the parking area). There is a bathroom building by where the road goes down to the lake area. ***The trail starts exactly behind the snack bar(which may or may not be open, small building about the size of a bedroom). You follow this trail as is goes up and skirts the huge slab. Often trees fall on the trail, but if you are ever not on a well-traveled trail, you are going the wrong way.)

From the slabs behind the snack bar and picnic ramada, pick up a trail (about the top and middle of the slabs, maybe a little on the left side) heading south/southwest (the trail will go mostly south and curve west slightly) and take it to the ridgeline (crossing several fallen trees), then follow it to a clearing/slab.

For the Towers, Wall of Marching Munchkins, and Wall of Dancing Dwarves, turn right and follow a short section of well-groomed switchbacks downhill to the climbs. For the Wall of Waltzing Witches, turn left at the clearing. All trails should be well-maintained and marked with cairns. Another way to access the Wall of the Waltzing Witches is to head up the gulley between the Two main walls and go straight across the slab at the top and turn right to hike down to the wall. This is probably about a fun 4th/5th class free solo. To get to the Troll Wall, continue past the Dwarf Wall on the trail.

More beta: hillarydavis.com/munchkinin…

102 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Munchkinland Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Dark Side of Oz
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
There's No Place Like Home
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clip Clip Here, Clip Clip There
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Run Like Hell
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Asgard
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sudden Death
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
If I Only Had a Brain
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Monkeys
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lollipop Guild
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Munchkinland
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Business as Usual
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horse Of A Different Color
Sport 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pay No Attention to the Man Behind th…
Sport 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Valhalla
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ruby Slippers
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Dark Side of Oz Towers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
There's No Place Like Home Wall of the Marching Munchkins 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Clip Clip Here, Clip Clip T… Towers 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Run Like Hell Wall of the Trundling Trolls 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Asgard Wall of the Trundling Trolls 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sudden Death Wall of the Trundling Trolls 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
If I Only Had a Brain Wall of the Marching Munchkins 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Flying Monkeys Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lollipop Guild Wall of the Marching Munchkins 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Munchkinland Wall of the Marching Munchkins 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Business as Usual Wall of the Trundling Trolls 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Horse Of A Different Color Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Pay No Attention to the Man… Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Valhalla Wall of the Trundling Trolls 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Ruby Slippers Wall of the Marching Munchkins 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Munchkinland Area »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Lesley  
I was at Munchkinland this Saturday, May 2nd. It was starting to rain, so we left in a hurry. If anyone finds a "Real Deal" sun hat, I'd be psyched to get it back. Even though I'm not a first ascentionist or related to Darth Vader, I still think it's the right thing to do. May 4, 2015
Todd Duzer
Tempe, Arizona
Todd Duzer   Tempe, Arizona
I was just at Munchkinland on today (March 16th) and left my white helmet and brown moccasin shoes. I believe I left them by "Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs" at the climb the "Dancing Dwarfs". If you are going there soon and see them I would really appreciate it if you let me know! My number is 760-521-4721 or you can email me at todd.vanduzer@gmail.com

Thanks! Mar 17, 2014
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
If you are facing the front of the snackbar from the driveway, you should walk around behind it on the left side. The trail is right there. It will take you straight up the slab.

Once you get up the slab, the trail will take you southwest around the lake. There are a few overlooks where you should see the lake on your left.

At no point can I remember the trail ever going north or east. I had a compass with me, and looked for a trail heading in that direction. (Yes, I got quite lost). There are a number of 'kind of' trails in that direction that were apparently used to cut down burned trees. I agree that you will definitely be on a well-marked trail, but it does go west and southwest around the lake.

Hope this helps! The climbing is great and we had the area all to ourselves this past weekend. Apr 23, 2009
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
I haven't heard anything on the "fee" lately, but we hiked through the lake to Munchkinland two weeks ago. I stopped and chatted up the concessionaire employee working the snack stand, and she didn't ask us for any money. Hopefully, this "fee" issue has been laid to rest. If you do get stopped, I recommend a firm but polite refusal. Jun 30, 2008
Braxtron
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Braxtron   ...
Is this silly fee still in effect? Jun 30, 2008
jbak  
I'm gonna get me a lounge chair, set up by the bathroom and charge anyone that passes by a dollar. May 30, 2008
There was a thing called the Boston Tea Party once. I say pretend you can't hear them and keep on walking. If you can get away from someone that has their ass surgically attached to a golf cart you should take up another sport.

Or if it will make Scott M. happier (our reflection is important) then tell them the F Service said we didn't have to pay and until we hear otherwise we are not going to comply.

Quit being a bunch of chumps. You have paid for a day or year pass. Your tax dollars are used to maintain the forest. Do not let them charge you a third time to walk on your forest land! May 30, 2008
Scott M. McNamara
Tucson, Arizona
Scott M. McNamara   Tucson, Arizona
MISSION NOT ACCOMPLISHED (as of May 29, 2008)

More developments with the fee to walk through Rose Canyon Lake.

The concessionaire (RRM) is now taking the position that they can charge whatever fees they like.

The Forest Service is trying to figure out what to do about this new development.

With so many people climbing these days, access issues (like these) are going to become much more common. We have been fortunate to escape them for so long. In respect to this situation, I am hoping to avoid any incident between climbers and RRM workers that would reflect badly upon us.

As I previously mentioned, I am interested in collecting any information about your encounters with this concessionaire. I would be gratefull if you would e-mail me anything you think I should know.
Thanks. May 30, 2008
adam e
Tucson, AZ
adam e   Tucson, AZ
Our group was charged the $1 walk-in fee one our way to climb at Munchkinland on Sunday May 25th. We thought it was odd, but didn't know any better and didn't feel like arguing the point, so we paid our way in.

Thanks to Scott, I've been in touch with the Forest Service about this and they're going to refund our money (on principal) and speak directly with the staff at the Rose Canyon area about this.

The Forest Service rep made it very clear that there is to be no fee for walk-ins and apologized for the inconvenience.

So if you should be asked to pay a fee for walking in, you can make up your own mind about what to do, but I strongly recommend letting the Forest Service know about it.

Thanks Scott for the post and info!

-Adam May 27, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Thanks Scott and Susan for working on this! May 16, 2008
Scott M. McNamara
Tucson, Arizona
Scott M. McNamara   Tucson, Arizona
THE FEE NO LONGER EXISTS

Last Saturday (May 10, 2008) I went to the kiosk at Rose Canyon Lake. I told them I wanted to park above the lake and use the Fisherman's Trail but wished to pay the one dollar ($1.00) fee to walk across their concession area. They told me the fee no longer exists.

Today, (Friday, May 16, 2008) a representative from the Coronado National Forest Service called me. She apologized for the fee incident with Brent Silvester---see his posts above. She said that the concessionaire will refund the fee to anyone it charged. She said that the Forest Service will no longer allow their concessionaire to charge this fee. If it tries to do so, then the Forest Service wants to know and it will take disciplinary action. May 16, 2008
Which directions did you use Tobin? SQ II , Falcon Guide, MP.com? May 6, 2008
jbak  
Dude, you were totally lost. There's a much better way. It sounds more like you were headed for Willow or Troll. May 6, 2008
Tobin  
I went up to Munchkinland just yesterday for the first time, and found the approach directions to be almost entirely innaccurate.

To get there, we parked in the parking lot not far from the lake (way past the blue dumpster, which as of yesterday was not far past the fee station) and walked along the path (which starts as a paved road to the handicap parking lot) to one of two dams. From there you can either scramble down into the dam drainage or walk the long way all around the lake (crossing the opposite dam) and take an obviouse path down into the drainage from the other side of the dam. Once we were in the drainage we lost track of the trail and just followed the stream (actually, it was a string of stagnant pools at the time) about 15 minutes down to the wall. I read somewhere that Munchkinland was "The first climable rock you come to" on your way in, but I found a couple of smaller walls on the way in that made me stop and check the guide books. They were all cliffs 40-60 ft tall that looked easily like they could have been easy first leads (like I'd heard the Towers were), but there were no bolts or anchors to be found, so we pressed on and eventually got there. About a 15 minute hike once you decend from the lake.

Also a note about the fee (not the walk in fee, I know nothing about that): We stopped to pay for a day pass ($5) at the pay station on Catalina Highway and were told that we didn't need one for rose canyon rec area, but that the rec area itself has an $8 fee. So, no need to pay a fee twice. Also, the rec area offers season passes for $45, so if you plan on making the trip 6 times, it might be worth considering. May 6, 2008
Under normal circumstance I would have made that ranger WORK a little harder to extract that trivial fee from me. However, I was with a newbie and my girlfriend and didn't want to be 'that guy'.

We started joking later about all the charges we incurred that day. Walking on a trail: $1, Looking at Rose Lake: $5, kicking pine cone: $3 etc. etc.

Perhaps I should pay all the fines and fees, and maybe the Forest Service will use the money to post a sign at Windy point telling the good ol boys to stop throwing bottles, cans, and rocks off the cliffs. Oh yeah, maybe they can pull out the . . . . May 3, 2008
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
Pretty soon they are going to issue radio collar's to Climber's! That way the FS can track us down like animal's. Apr 30, 2008
I know someone is going to give me crap for saying this. I should be a better role model blah blah blah. But you already paid a fee to be on the mountain. I suggest you just keep hiking, fast if necessary until you are out of the area. I doubt they will follow you. The fast walking part is where you will lose them. Or run if need be. That is just total BS. Apr 30, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
That seems like a pretty efficient use of the money I pay in taxes, use an hour of a ranger's time (who probably costs the government at least $20 an hour after benefits, etc) to collect $2. Apr 30, 2008
A heads up to all who enter the Munchkinland Area -

According to the Rangers and the pay station, all people who enter, or walk through the Rose Lake campground, even for just one second, are required to pay a $1 "walk in" fee. I did not know about this until I took a first timer friend of mine there, and we were chased down by this ranger who started freaking out about us not having a Pass. Unaware of this stupid fee, I thought she was kidding, and quickly found out she wasn't. For those of you who park on Willow creek road, you are technically supposed to pay the $1. I think you would have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to get caught, but it happened to me, and sucked. Cause then you have to walk all the way to the fricking pay station, and then back.

Personally, I think it is bull shit to charge someone to walk through a national forest, especially since I'm supposed to pay just to use the road. I'm not parking there or using any of the facilities, just walking through. It's not like the national forest service is replacing anchors and bolts, or even putting trails to get to these areas. Outrageous. A fee area inside a fee area. Apr 30, 2008
Braxtron
...
Braxtron   ...
Any way to divide this section into 2? There are actually two separate walls, on opposite sides of the rock. I think it'd make more sense that way.

EDIT: Thanks for organizing these climbs, Greg! Mar 8, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
hmmm true. thanks. Oct 1, 2007
Jimbo  
Could be nice could be very cold. Could be snow on the ground.
You can always go do some routes on the Troll Wall in the AM sun then move back to Munchkin in the afternoon. But there are much warmer places to climb on the Lemmon in the winter, lower on the mountain. Sep 30, 2007
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
what's this place like in january? Sep 28, 2007
Haven't met any unfriendly people here in around 20 visits. Can be difficult to get on some routes if your picky and want to do certain ones. Aug 29, 2007
go to the website it's extremely helpful and thorough. Jul 4, 2007
Any guides yet for the new areas across the stream? Thanks. Jun 13, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
What is the route right of "Horse of a different color 11-"?

There is "...Man behind the curtain 10+" and then "flying monkeys" which starts on the other side of the grungy arete and then crosses over to the face. and then there are two more bolted routes, one of which is "horse ...". What is the other? Jun 2, 2007
Braxtron
...
Braxtron   ...
This area is arguably the most popular on Mt. Lemmon for novice climbers & stick clips. In other words: gym climbing-type atmosphere here. Feb 5, 2007
Schweet! A plug for my Web site! Jul 4, 2006
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
If you own a stick-clip this might be a good place to bring it.
Though I think some of the climbs with low cruxes become quite a bit easier if you stick-clip the first or second bolt. Jun 26, 2006

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