Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: SA
Page Views: 1,298 total · 10/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

This fun route begins in the seam/crack, which turns into a right-facing corner about 15 feet above the slab start. Approximately 10 feet higher is a small roof where the corner jogs right. This is the location where a few moves out of the dihedral to the left and up gain a ledge (the same ledge as Do You Want to Live Forever? Not leaving the corner at the appropriate location leads to filthy rock and loose blocks). The remainder of the climb ascends the prominent left-facing dihedral to the anchors at 100 feet. Although a gigantic column forms the upper left-facing corner, the feature is completely solid and enjoyable. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Protection

Pro to 3.5", anchors.

location

This route is the second crack system down and right from Gully (see squeezing the Lemmon.)

Photos

Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.8+
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.8+
When I led this route, I accidentally did not move left out of the corner, but continued straight up. Instead of finding "filthy rock and loose blocks", I found great climbing--a nice hand/fist crack, (apparently not part of any route) through a bulge, which leads directly to a wonderful thin 5.9 lieback (this is the alternate finish to route 12, noted on Geir Hundal's topo).

We felt that the line we climbed was better (although harder) than the line stepping left as described above, which we climbed later in the day. Jul 17, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I've done it that way too and it's sweet,especially the last part right before the anchors..In that little area, I gave up trying to figure out what's a variation of what a long time ago, but there's plenty of anchors up there; eventually you run into one. Jul 17, 2009
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
Tao of Choy 5.7 for me was harder than sudden death 10-. Far be it from me to accuse anyone of sandbagging. Jun 29, 2014