Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: SA, Abishek Chandrashakur, Jean Francois Camson
Page Views: 155 total · 1/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Look for a line of bolts between Business as Usual and Trollkind on the steep orange face. If the second pitch is too difficult, don’t miss the excellent first pitch! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch – 1 Beautiful moves on perfect rock lead to a classic roof with big holds. Move left at the end of the pitch to a stance with anchors. (These anchors had to be placed unusually high above the ledge in order to be in solid stone, so adjust your attachment points for a comfortable stance on the ledge.) 5.11-, 8 bolts, #4-8 stoppers, 75 feet.

Pitch – 2 Traverse straight left off the ledge past a bolt to the right-facing corner. Climb up this to where it pinches off and begins to lean right. Very hard moves past 4 bolts lead up the steep face to the right to a point where the line finally curves back left and on to the top. 5.11+, 12 bolts, ¾”, 1”, 1½” cams, long runners for the cams, 90 feet.

Protection

Bolts, pro to 1.5", anchors.

Photos

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Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Very sustained climbing. .4 camelot protects roof move perfectly.
I fell once at the 4th bolt on the on-sight attempt. May 1, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Although it's tempting to try to get pro as high as possible before turning the roof on the first pitch, try not to protect in the wider 2-4" crack high on the roof. Blocks in there are hollow & flexing.

Had a friend pop a cam from in that crack and take a 25 foot spinning whipper. Thankfully only hit his arm and not his head. May 17, 2009
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Second pitch goes at 12a, and requires two or three cams at the start. See the topo for more details. Sep 23, 2009
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
The first pitch is mind blowing: perfect vertical face to a featured roof. Reminiscent of the neighboring Stranger in a Strange Land. For what it is worth, the trad portion takes good gear. My excessive placements consisted of two large nuts, a C3 #1, and a C4 #.4. May 27, 2013