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Routes in Wall of the Trundling Trolls

All Things Considered S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Asgard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best of Both Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Business as Usual T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chicken Little S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Precedents T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Digital Alarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eggashegadrae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Fear of Lurking S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Few Species T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexible Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Furchrissakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hall of the Mountain King T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hostile Takeover T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hung Like a Troll T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper Sloth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
If I Had a Hammer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Internet Troll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jerk Whisperer, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Player Hater's Club T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Run Like Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidebottom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky is Falling, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip Service S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slot, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spew Feces T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stalker, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stranger in a Strange Land S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sudden Death T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Take Apart the Robots T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Talk of the Nation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tao of Choy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That's Entertainment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trollkind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tyr T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valhalla T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
You're Fired! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 82 ft
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle
Page Views: 83 total, 1/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the easy slab below an attractive right-leaning crack that doglegs back left after 45 feet. Although the crux sequence is challenging, the remainder of the pitch is much easier. Climb the crack to a small rest ledge 10 feet above the point where the crack doglegs back left (the original route continued up and left in this easy weakness, but the following suggestion is highly recommended for the best finish.) Protect out right in the thin right-leaning crack, then step out and engage the thin crack to where it ends just below the anchors. A final steep move gains the ledge and the anchors found just below the original sling belay/rap station. Finish on either of the bolted second pitches above (recommended; Loki 5.11b, or Best of Both Worlds 5.10+) or traverse right and finish up on Sloth. (JS, RR; one fall/hang. 2004 first known redpoint) (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Protection

1 bolt, pro to 3.5", anchors.

location

See Squeezing the Lemmon.

Photos

Aleix  
That's right, you can never go wrong with GEIR's GEAR beta ! May 13, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
... that's Geir beta. :) May 13, 2009
Aleix  
Thanks Geir and Eric !
I couldn't have done it without you guys (...and your gear beta) :-) May 13, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
(Warning! Beta Below!)

This is a really fun climb that protects well after the 5.6 start. The moves to the bolt protect with an absolutely bomber .5-.9" cam. Clip the bolt and figure out a sequence for the crux that works for you. Above the bolt another bomber .75-1" cam can be placed before working another tricky section to a jug. Great gear can be placed at the jug and the climbing eases 5.10 or below to the top.

This climb was originally rated 12-, this rating may be true for an onsight attempt. May 13, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Aleix flashed this on Monday - probably the proudest ascent this climb has seen! Also on Monday, EFR cruised this one on his second try. On Tuesday, Jimbo sent on his second try as well. Were these the coveted second, third, and fourth free ascents? Good job everyone! May 13, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11+
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11+
Interesting crux with a solution that can be found somewhere other than where you are looking. Probably easier for those over 6 feet tall. The gear on this route is good but tough to get in above the bolt.

GEAR-nothing bigger than a yellow camalot and you might double up the rack. May 11, 2009