Type: Trad, 82 ft
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle
Page Views: 258 total · 2/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start on the easy slab below an attractive right-leaning crack that doglegs back left after 45 feet. Although the crux sequence is challenging, the remainder of the pitch is much easier. Climb the crack to a small rest ledge 10 feet above the point where the crack doglegs back left (the original route continued up and left in this easy weakness, but the following suggestion is highly recommended for the best finish.) Protect out right in the thin right-leaning crack, then step out and engage the thin crack to where it ends just below the anchors. A final steep move gains the ledge and the anchors found just below the original sling belay/rap station. Finish on either of the bolted second pitches above (recommended; Loki 5.11b, or Best of Both Worlds 5.10+) or traverse right and finish up on Sloth. (JS, RR; one fall/hang. 2004 first known redpoint) (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Protection

1 bolt, pro to 3.5", anchors.

location

See Squeezing the Lemmon.

Photos