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Routes in Wall of the Trundling Trolls

All Things Considered S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Asgard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best of Both Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Business as Usual T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chicken Little S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Precedents T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Digital Alarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eggashegadrae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Fear of Lurking S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Few Species T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexible Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Furchrissakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hall of the Mountain King T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hostile Takeover T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hung Like a Troll T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper Sloth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
If I Had a Hammer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Internet Troll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jerk Whisperer, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Player Hater's Club T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Run Like Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidebottom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky is Falling, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip Service S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slot, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spew Feces T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stalker, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stranger in a Strange Land S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sudden Death T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Take Apart the Robots T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Talk of the Nation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tao of Choy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That's Entertainment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trollkind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tyr T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valhalla T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
You're Fired! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Alex Kiss, Mike Strassman - 1982
Page Views: 1,456 total, 12/month
Shared By: Christian on Mar 19, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

(by Scott Ayers) The original moderate plum of the crag, but a thought-provoking and difficult lead for its grade. Not the best choice for an aspiring 5.8 leader, if the quantities of seasonal bail-off gear are any indication. It is recommended to belay/lower from the bolted rappel station below the pine tree, as this marks the end of the quality climbing. Follow the left-leaning, left-facing corner for about 30 feet till it ends, then step back left and into the prominent right-facing corner that defines the bulk of the remaining difficulties. Pro to 3½”, 65 feet.

Location

Towards right end of the wall, just left of "Slip Service"

Protection

Pro to 3½”, Chains at 65 feet.

Photos

JFox
Cottonwood
 
JFox   Cottonwood
 
Pretty tough, lot's of fun, tricky gear. Aug 24, 2010
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.9-
Did this again today, and I have to reiterate that this is pretty solid for 5.8 trad. I found the placements to be somewhat difficult, and from awkward stances. Also watched a couple of 5.8 followers have difficulty with the crux up high. Fun, challenging route, but I wouldn't recommend it for new trad leaders or those near their limit at 5.8 or 9. Aug 16, 2009
I didn't mean to imply that old trad routes were being retro'd. Or that the wall was a grid fest.

I meant that I imagined there were now some steep routes on hard rock that protected well without having to fiddle all day with odd ball gear.

FWIW - various sources have assured me that none of the routes in Steiger's guide have had any bolts added.

That said, my recollection of the troll is that there were a number of lines that wandered and crossed and were never written up or properly described. So it's possible there are now bolts to clip where once it was spicy gear. And personally, if that's the case, hallelujah. Feb 16, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
 
Christian   Casa do Cacete
 
Geir or Scott could probably correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe bolts were added only to the belays? Not that this didn't make some of the scary climbs far less so (and I'm sure Paul has some stories), but the preceding comment kind of makes it sound like Scott added a bunch of bolts to the actual climbing part of the existing trad lines.

Then a bunch of entirely new lines went up as sport or mixed routes. Feb 9, 2009
BITD, the comment that "Awkward for its grade - and I found the pro to be non-trivial as well. A newer 5.xx leader would be well tested on this route. " pretty much described all the routes on the Troll Wall.

Looking at the profusion of bolts here these days, it seems pretty clear that some of the old horror fests have become enjoyable climbs. Feb 9, 2009
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.9-
Awkward for its grade - and I found the pro to be non-trivial as well. A newer 5.8 leader would be well tested on this route. Feb 6, 2009
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Yes, in fact I pulled a blue alien! First piece I've ever pulled... Stopper below that held. Jun 25, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
 
Christian   Casa do Cacete
 
RIP Mike Strassman, never had the pleasure of meeting him but thanks for all the great routes. Jun 20, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
 
Christian   Casa do Cacete
 
If I remember correctly, the gear near the roof move is kind of thin, a blue Alien maybe? Did you pull gear when you fell? Jun 20, 2008
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
This is a fun climb, but sustained and steep, so 5.8 leaders should proceed with caution. Pro is good for most of the way, but not great up high. The roof mentioned near the top of the route is small, but bulgy and awkward. I took a 30 foot whipper from this move, and saw another fellow fall 20 feet a week later on the same move. Careful here! Jun 20, 2008