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Routes in Wall of the Trundling Trolls

All Things Considered S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Asgard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best of Both Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Business as Usual T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chicken Little S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Precedents T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Digital Alarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eggashegadrae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Fear of Lurking S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Few Species T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexible Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Furchrissakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hall of the Mountain King T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hostile Takeover T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hung Like a Troll T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper Sloth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
If I Had a Hammer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Internet Troll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jerk Whisperer, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Player Hater's Club T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Run Like Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidebottom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky is Falling, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip Service S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slot, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spew Feces T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stalker, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stranger in a Strange Land S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sudden Death T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Take Apart the Robots T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Talk of the Nation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tao of Choy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That's Entertainment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trollkind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tyr T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valhalla T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
You're Fired! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: SA, Jean Francois Camson, Windy Greer
Page Views: 1,353 total, 12/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This fine crack route is located just left of Furchrissakes, and ascends a series of right-leaning, left-facing corners that head towards the left edge of a large roof. Start about 15 feet left of Furchrissakes (most will use the first 5 feet of Oppositional Defiance Disorder to start), looking for three parallel cracks, the right most being a clean corner starting 20 feet up, above some small ledges. Scramble up the ledges, and climb up the first corner (crux) to a stance below a roof. Move out right around the roof to another left-facing corner to a stance below the large roof (do not be lured off left onto the flake which is left of this corner system). Although 8 feet below the roof it is possible to move left and climb into an easier, dirtier weakness, the more aesthetic line moves up and right to the obvious flake/handcrack below the left side of the roof. Gain the clean crack, then step back left and up to a stance with a bolted anchor. It is highly recommended to finish straight up on the second pitch of Few Species (5.10a) to its anchor at the top of the wall. These two pitches have been lead as one long pitch, and are a superb challenge at this grade, yielding a 3 star route. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars, pitch 1.)

Protection

Pro to 3.5", with recommended dubles in the .5" to 3" range, anchors.

location

The first crack system left of Furchissakes (see Squeezing the Lemmon.) Head for the right "triple cracks" feature when approximately 20 feet up.

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Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
no gear for the first 20 feet but it's pretty easy. i thought the pro was solid the whole way after that. bomber cams in the layback (crux) sections.

oh and btw this route is classic if you like laybacks. Apr 6, 2015
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Instead of going right under the small roof 2/3 of the way up, you can go left up a clean, overhanging hand-crack flake. I thought this was even better than going right, and about the same difficulty. Ends at the same anchor. Jun 18, 2012
Amy W
Tucson, AZ
 
Amy W   Tucson, AZ
 
Beautiful climb. Lots of fun moves! Jun 14, 2010
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Amazing route. Very demanding layback moves. May 1, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
incredible, committing laybacks! Aug 14, 2008
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Followed Christian up this route on tr a few months back at which point i was introduced to the term 'psychological pro'. Great climb with some thought-provoking sequences especially coming up to and around the small roof system. Aug 12, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10a
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10a
An outstanding route with some committing laybacks, I used the wimpy finish towards the top of the first pitch as I didn't feel like running it out too much above a green Alien...

I had done the correct finish on an earlier pinkpoint attempt and had a little too vivid of a memory of being 8-10 feet out from that Alien on some balancy moves left under the final roof.. Aug 8, 2008