Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: SA, Jean Francois Camson, Windy Greer
Page Views: 2,495 total · 13/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

This fine crack route is located just left of Furchrissakes, and ascends a series of right-leaning, left-facing corners that head towards the left edge of a large roof. Start about 15 feet left of Furchrissakes (most will use the first 5 feet of Oppositional Defiance Disorder to start), looking for three parallel cracks, the right most being a clean corner starting 20 feet up, above some small ledges. Scramble up the ledges, and climb up the first corner (crux) to a stance below a roof. Move out right around the roof to another left-facing corner to a stance below the large roof (do not be lured off left onto the flake which is left of this corner system). Although 8 feet below the roof it is possible to move left and climb into an easier, dirtier weakness, the more aesthetic line moves up and right to the obvious flake/handcrack below the left side of the roof. Gain the clean crack, then step back left and up to a stance with a bolted anchor. It is highly recommended to finish straight up on the second pitch of Few Species (5.10a) to its anchor at the top of the wall. These two pitches have been lead as one long pitch, and are a superb challenge at this grade, yielding a 3 star route. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars, pitch 1.)

Protection Suggest change

Pro to 3.5", with recommended dubles in the .5" to 3" range. Anchor: chains with mussy hooks, updated 2023, CASA/ASCA 

location Suggest change

The first crack system left of Furchissakes (see Squeezing the Lemmon.) Head for the right "triple cracks" feature when approximately 20 feet up.