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Routes in Wall of the Trundling Trolls

All Things Considered S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Asgard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best of Both Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Business as Usual T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chicken Little S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Precedents T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Digital Alarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eggashegadrae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Fear of Lurking S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Few Species T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexible Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Furchrissakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hall of the Mountain King T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hostile Takeover T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hung Like a Troll T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper Sloth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
If I Had a Hammer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Internet Troll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jerk Whisperer, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Player Hater's Club T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Run Like Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidebottom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky is Falling, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip Service S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slot, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spew Feces T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stalker, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stranger in a Strange Land S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sudden Death T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Take Apart the Robots T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Talk of the Nation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tao of Choy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That's Entertainment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trollkind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tyr T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valhalla T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
You're Fired! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 145 ft, 2 pitches
FA: SA, Andy Peters
Page Views: 431 total, 4/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Although one of the very last routes to be established on this wall, this climb is great, and contains multiple cruxes, the two hardest of which come at the end. Even though the line is recommended to be climbed in one long pitch, there is a belay anchor at 95 feet to facilitate a more reasonable two-pitch ascent. As this route utilizes nearly one-third of its total length from starting and finishing on already established climbs, it is not a completely a new route, but the amount of new climbing is well over 60%, and thereby has been deemed worthy of a separate entry as a complete line. This is perhaps the route Sloth should have been, instead of the minor variation that was originally established. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 – Start by climbing the right-leaning, right-facing dihedral (5.10) on the Best of Both Worlds, but at the small roof (formed by a safely wedged block) continue up the right-leaning crack (instead of stepping left as for the Best of Both Worlds.) This crack continues up past another interesting section (5.10-) then reaches belay anchors slightly left of the crack on a small ledge. It is important to be cautious when making the final moves onto this belay ledge as the stacked blocks on its right end are detached but safe to move past (do NOT protect in these blocks!) Pro to 3”, 95 feet.

Variation - 5.10- * By starting the route on Flexible Flyer, and traversing over onto the main crack system in the vicinity of the small roof formed by the safely wedged block mentioned above, the pitch can be climbed to the first belay station at a moderate grade without doing the upper section. Pro to 3”, 95 feet.

Pitch 2 – Up and right from the belay ledge are three bolts protecting hard (5.10+) moves that lead to a short section of crack that reaches the vertical right-facing corner below the Sloth roof finish. The Sloth finish (see the description below under Flexible Flyer for details) is 5.10+ and a fine finale. A two bolt belay anchor is found directly above and slightly left of the roof finish on a small ledge. Pro to 3½”, 55 feet.

Protection

3 bolts, pro to 3.5", anchors.

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