Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: SA, Scott Drawz
Page Views: 75 total · 1/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

This dismissive route follows the thin seam between Few Species and Business as Usual, and presents two distinct cruxes, either of which can eject the applicant. This pitch would be an excellent choice to reach the crux 2nd pitch of Hostile Takeover, if continuously difficult climbing is desired. Scramble up to the small ledges below the seam bearing three bolts. Hard moves past the bolts reach the easier crack above which is protected by excellent wired nuts. When just below the big roof, look for two bolts leading out and over the roof to the right. Undercling the roof, then turn it below the huge chickenhead. Continue up to the bolt above (protects the follower), then traverse right to the belay anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Variation – 5.11+ *** After the initial 3 bolts, climb the easier crack till just below the left end of the roof. A small, hanging, right-facing corner (mentioned as a variation on pitch 1 of Few Species) is directly above this stance. Continue up this feature to the right-facing corner system above. Join the second pitch of Hostile Takeover from this point onward, passing through the strenuous crux section and on up to the anchors. Done as one pitch, this combination is one of the most demanding lines on the entire Troll Wall. (If you just haven’t had enough by this point, you could traverse over right to the belay for Performance Anxiety, and top out on that variation!)

Protection

6 bolts, pro to 1", anchors.

location

Start 10 feet right of Few Species (see Squeezing the Lemmon) below the vertical, thin seam.

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