Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: SA, Abishek Chandrashakur
Page Views: 82 total · 1/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 7, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Climb past the roofs to a hard move changing from the right side of the arete to the left side. Easy climbing leads to the anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Location

At the far upper left end of the Troll Wall is a partially separated small tower with an attractive arĂȘte. This route starts beneath the arĂȘte, under some tiered roofs.

Protection

7 bolts.

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Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10b
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10b
One option is to not try to follow the bolts around the right of the arete. Instead, move up onto the face (to the left) after clipping the first bolt on the right facing side of the arete, slabbing up to the last bolt then arriving at the anchors. Aug 12, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I used the option Daryl described and skipped the bolt that keeps heading right and got on the slab as soon as possible.

To keep going right seemed impossibly hard and not 10+. Seen a solid 11 climber fall there repeatedly.

Skipping that bolt to get on the slab right away makes it about 10b and PG-13 just like Daryl suggested. The second move on the slab that might get you in trouble if you fall is not the crux; maybe a 9+ move. Aug 12, 2008
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10b
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10b
You know, I probably should i have mentioned i was comfortably tethered on toprope after Christian put this up for us so, on lead, YMMV somewhat. :) Dec 10, 2008