Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: SA, Andy Peters
Page Views: 1,121 total · 9/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Yet another quality Troll Wall moderate crack! This route starts in an obvious left-facing corner that gets bigger as it goes higher, eventually turning into a right slanting crack/shallow corner. The Tao of Choy parallels this crack just eight feet left, and both cracks form an alcove under a roof approximately 35 feet up (although neither route ascends the final, dirty 12 feet up into the alcove). Above the right slanting crack, step left on a small ledge to a clean thin crack (identified by a piton approximately 10 feet up. The main crack becomes very dirty from this point on). Continue up this for 15 feet, and then step left to a small stance at the anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Protection

3 pitons, pro to 3", anchors.

location

The third crack system downhill and right of Gully, and the next independant crack system left of Furchissakes (see Squeezing the Lemmon.)

Photos

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Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
I think I did this? I had meant to do Run Like Hell, but I guess I just wasn't paying attention and ended up climbing something to it's left (anxious to climb/get out of the sun, I suppose). At a certain point I stepped right into a small corner with two pitons, which led to a right-leaning flake/crack and eventually the anchors of Run Like Hell on my right. The description here indicates moving left each time that I moved right, hmm. Whatever I did, though, was pretty fun and a good warm up. Felt like .10a. May 21, 2015
David Ellis
Tucson
 
David Ellis   Tucson
 
This climb felt easier than Tao of Choy. Avoided the pitons in favor of placing gear (not a fan of clipping pitons). The 12 feet into the alcove are not dirty and it's well protected. Climbed this on top-rope also in order to rescue some gear. The line through the pitons didn't feel anymore difficult than the "dirty" alcove. May 4, 2018