Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: SA, Andy Peters
Page Views: 1,868 total · 10/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Yet another quality Troll Wall moderate crack! This route starts in an obvious left-facing corner that gets bigger as it goes higher, eventually turning into a right slanting crack/shallow corner. The Tao of Choy parallels this crack just eight feet left, and both cracks form an alcove under a roof approximately 35 feet up (although neither route ascends the final, dirty 12 feet up into the alcove). Above the right slanting crack, step left on a small ledge to a clean thin crack (identified by a piton approximately 10 feet up. The main crack becomes very dirty from this point on). Continue up this for 15 feet, and then step left to a small stance at the anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Protection Suggest change

3 pitons, pro to 3", chains with mussy hooks, updated 2023, CASA/ASCA 

location Suggest change

The third crack system downhill and right of Gully, and the next independant crack system left of Furchissakes (see Squeezing the Lemmon.)


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