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All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (S… > Mount Lemmon (C… > 6 - Mid-Mountain > Munchkinland Area > Wall of the Trundling Trolls

Hairlip BJ Ecstasy

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British


 Avg: 2.3 from 7 votes

Routes in Wall of the Trundling Trolls

All Things Considered S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Asgard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best of Both Worlds T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Business as Usual T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chicken Little S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Precedents T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Digital Alarm T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eggashegadrae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Fear of Lurking S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Few Species T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexible Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Furchrissakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hall of the Mountain King T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hostile Takeover T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hung Like a Troll T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper Sloth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
If I Had a Hammer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Internet Troll T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jerk Whisperer, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Player Hater's Club T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Run Like Hell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidebottom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky is Falling, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip Service S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slot, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spew Feces T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stalker, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stranger in a Strange Land S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Death T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Take Apart the Robots T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Talk of the Nation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tao of Choy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That's Entertainment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trollkind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tyr T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valhalla T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
You're Fired! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: John Sherman, ??
Page Views: 798 total · 6/month
Shared By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

A route name for the whole family to enjoy! This straightforward line starts in the obvious right-leaning crack. Sustained and reasonably protected. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Location

Upper left end of the wall (see Squeezing the Lemmon.)

Protection

Pro to 3.5"

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1 Comment

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Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
The strangeness of this route's name is almost commensurate to the climbing it involves. The rock quality to start is not great, but gets better as you approach the roof via fun, thoughtful climbing. The moves over the roof are bizarre (beta spoiler: they involve making a big dynamic move from a heel hook too a somewhat insecure handjam). After the roof the climbing stays hard and doesn't really let up until some nice jugs at the very end. As for the rating: the guide that I was working off of (Geir's topo, I believe?) had it listed as .11b. Using Histoplasmosis as a benchmark, .11b is a total sandbag (unless there's some different beta that I missed, or you have extremely long arms). Overall a really good route that's both burly and perplexing.
Doubles to #3 will give you plenty of options. Stoppers and medium-sized hexes also came in handy. May 21, 2015

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