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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Wade Mills and Forest Shute
Page Views: 2,298 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on May 17, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is THE crack climb in North Bay (which isn't saying much). It features hand and fist crack climbing, with some lie-backing, wideness, and good exposure. There's an old Star Dryvin bolt half way up. Don't clip it. Instead put a good 2.5" cam in the crack then fire the crux.

Location

Scramble up the gully right of the Bear sport routes, 4th class, up through oak trees to the base of the obvious crack that splits the upper face.

Protection

Bring 2 each, cams 1"-4". Three #3 camalots is a good idea. There is a two bolt anchor on the ledge to the left at the top.

Photos

grabski
N California
  5.10a
grabski   N California
  5.10a
Yeah the route feels like low 5.10. Though with the FA decades ago I can understand the .9+ grading.

An adventurous climb worth doing. Not for the wary leader. The pro is there, but it's not obvious due to the nature of the crack and loose rock in places. There's a spot for a sling around a big chockstone before the bulge, and maybe another thread/sling opportunity beforehand. I'd recommend your belayer wear a helmet, especially when lowering from the anchors since the face is dirty. 70m takes you fully to the ground from the chains on the left at the top, looks like 60m will too. Jun 27, 2016
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  5.9+
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  5.9+
I used 2-#1's, 2-#3's and 2-#4's to lead up to the crux. Under the roof crux there is a perfect "divot" at the top of the wide crack that fits a bomber #4. If you find that you're golden, otherwise the placements seemed kinda sketchy. After the crux there is a nice splitter 5.7 hand crack that I placed one .75 in at the start and then ran it out 50 feet to the chains to make it more exciting. Can rap to the ground with one 60 m or go half way to another set of chains at a ledge to climbers left and do 2 raps. I'd say the crux is 5.9+ or maybe 5.10a for a couple of moves. I usually don't wear tape when crack climbing but the crux of this thing has some razor sharp hand jams. Wear tape. Nov 14, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.10b
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10b
More physical, sustained and challenging than I thought it would be. For me the crux was hanging on while spending like 2-5 minutes trying to figure out how to fit each cam that I placed in the gnarly cracks (to my dismay I had to rest three times). It was harder than a lot of 5.10a trad climbs that I led, although I'll admit it was easier than a few "5.9s" (specifically pitch 2 of Traveler Buttress and pitch 2 of Reed's Pinnacle Direct, so if you think they're typical 5.9s you can consider this climb a 5.8!). You can rap down with a single 60 m rope. Oct 29, 2013
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Rope solo with a few pieces. I was in need of some excitement. The crux is at a bulge about 2/3 up--a # 4 camalot fits here. One or two fist moves for me. After that, much easier. Jul 26, 2010
daniel c
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
daniel c   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Crack often opens up in the back, making for great jams but tricky gear placements. 1-3 inch hexes would be perfect. Otherwise, load-up on larger cams but bring at least one .5 for near the top. Look for and pass two bolt anchor to climber's left, climbing up class 5 section to ledge with two bolts separated by ~2 feet. Two raps - first to the ledge, then to ground (be careful not to rain rocks on climbers below). Route gets very little traffic which adds to the chossiness but also the adventure factor. Do it if your jonesing for some trad! Well worth it. Sep 6, 2009