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Elevation: 2,262 ft 689 m
GPS: 38.65266, -122.59982
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jun 17, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

WARNING: The St. Helena climbing area (excluding “the bubble” area) was severely affected by the Napa/Sonoma fires of October, 2017. Although many routes were cleaned and rebolted in 2018, it's possible that rock on some routes are unstable. Check the forum discussion for the latest on climbing impacts.

Overlooking Napa Valley, Mount St. Helena is about the most scenic climbing in the Bay Area. If you're willing to hike there's a ton of trad climbing in the area, but thus far, I've been too lazy to get anywhere but the three sport climbing areas. The rock is volcanic in origin, and ranges widely in forms, thus specific descriptions will be saved for each crag. Recently, Aron and I discovered that Forrest Shute has been hiding in the Los Angeles area. He mentioned that he had about half of all the first ascents on the Mountain, and that there's a lot more climbing past the Far Side than just that available in guidebooks. Hopefully, we'll be able to share a little more of his wisdom in the future.

See the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park website for more information.

Getting There Suggest change

From the majority of the Bay Area, it is quickest to take 80 East (though it goes mostly north) PAST highway 29, and take 12 west until it intersects 29 at a stop light.

Here, go right and drive through wine country (buy wine too).

In the town of Calistoga, 29 takes a right at a stop sign.

Continue on 29 out of Calistoga where it begins to get windy.

The road proceeds up the shoulder of Mount St. Helena.

At the top, there will be a pedestrians crossing sign promptly followed by parking areas on both the right and left sides of the road, they're pretty easy to fly by, but that's where you park.

You can park on either lot, and then which way to hike from there depends on your specific destination.

314 Total Climbs

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Location: Mount St. Helena Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount St. Helena

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 63
Hailstone Arete
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 79
Mystery Hole
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
Abracadabra
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Pipeline
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 131
Old Ladder Route
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 108
Rampage
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 37
b. boy bypass
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Tiny Dancer
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 128
The Ladder
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Baby Driver
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 21
Calistoga Rodeo
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 61
Beast of Burden
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
The Beast
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Kana Mota
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
Jason and the Argonauts
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hailstone Arete Satellite Rocks > Hailstone Rock
 63
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mystery Hole Far Side > Shute-Mills Area
 79
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Abracadabra Blind Man's Blu… > Blind Man's Bluff
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pipeline Near Side
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Old Ladder Route Bubble
 131
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Rampage Bear
 108
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
b. boy bypass Bubble
 37
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Tiny Dancer Blind Man's Blu… > Blind Man's Bluff
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Ladder Bubble
 128
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Baby Driver Blind Man's Blu… > Blind Man's Bluff
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Calistoga Rodeo Blind Man's Blu… > Blind Man's Bluff
 21
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Beast of Burden Bear
 61
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Beast Bear
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Kana Mota Wappo Tower
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Jason and the Argonauts Bear
 14
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount St. Helena »

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