Elevation: 2,262 ft
GPS: 38.653, -122.6 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 394,024 total · 1,792/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jun 17, 2002 with improvements by Aldric Azucena and 2 others
Admins: Aron Quiter, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details
Access Issue: Details

Description

WARNING: The St. Helena climbing area (excluding “the bubble” area) was severely affected by the Napa/Sonoma fires of October, 2017. Although many routes were cleaned and rebolted in 2018, it's possible that rock on some routes are unstable. Check the forum discussion for the latest on climbing impacts.

Overlooking Napa Valley, Mount St. Helena is about the most scenic climbing in the Bay Area. If you're willing to hike there's a ton of trad climbing in the area, but thus far, I've been too lazy to get anywhere but the three sport climbing areas. The rock is volcanic in origin, and ranges widely in forms, thus specific descriptions will be saved for each crag. Recently, Aron and I discovered that Forrest Shute has been hiding in the Los Angeles area. He mentioned that he had about half of all the first ascents on the Mountain, and that there's a lot more climbing past the Far Side than just that available in guidebooks. Hopefully, we'll be able to share a little more of his wisdom in the future.

See the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park website for more information.

Getting There

From the majority of the Bay Area, it is quickest to take 80 East (though it goes mostly north) PAST highway 29, and take 12 west until it intersects 29 at a stop light.

Here, go right and drive through wine country (buy wine too).

In the town of Calistoga, 29 takes a right at a stop sign.

Continue on 29 out of Calistoga where it begins to get windy.

The road proceeds up the shoulder of Mount St. Helena.

At the top, there will be a pedestrians crossing sign promptly followed by parking areas on both the right and left sides of the road, they're pretty easy to fly by, but that's where you park.

You can park on either lot, and then which way to hike from there depends on your specific destination.

260 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount St. Helena

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 81
Table Scraps
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 90
Shute-Mills Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
New Tradition
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 137
5.9 Face
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 81
Aperitif
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 51
Hailstone Arete
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 68
Mystery Hole
Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 79
Old Ladder Route
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 91
Silverado Squatters
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 64
Kidnapped
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 82
Rampage
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 83
Solar Power
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 61
The West Arete
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 90
The Ladder
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 45
Beast of Burden
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Table Scraps Table Scraps Pinnacle
 81
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Shute-Mills Route Far Side > Shute-Mills Area
 90
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
New Tradition Far Side > Shute-Mills Area
 59
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
5.9 Face Bubble
 137
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Aperitif Table Scraps Pinnacle
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hailstone Arete Satellite Rocks > Hailstone Rock
 51
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mystery Hole Far Side > Shute-Mills Area
 68
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Old Ladder Route Bubble
 79
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Silverado Squatters Bear
 91
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Kidnapped Bear
 64
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rampage Bear
 82
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Solar Power Bubble
 83
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The West Arete Bubble
 61
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Ladder Bubble
 90
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Beast of Burden Bear
 45
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount St. Helena »

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