The Bear Rock Climbing
Routes in The Bear
|Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|GPS:||38.652, -122.611 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Brian Quiter on Jun 17, 2002|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Getting weather forecast...
DescriptionThe Bear is one of the highest areas on Mt. St. Helena, and it's name probably comes from the fact that it's a pain in the ass to get up to it. The climbing is on a large overhanging face and ranges from 5.9's to 5.12's. On the right side of the main face, there exists 3 second pitch routes that don't see much traffic. They can be approached from any of the climbs beneath because of the sizable ledge at their base. Finally, be a nice belayer and try not to lower climbers into the sharp trees beneath the climbs. Loose rocks above the second pitch climbs make it advisable to always wear a helmet at the base if any other groups are up top.
Getting ThereApproach time: From the bubble: 5-10 minutes.From the road: 20 - 45 minutes.
Per Dodrill's comment. There is now an excellent approach trail to the Bear. Continue up the fire trail maybe 1/4 mile from the bubble, going past the Bear looming above on the left. As the fire trail takes a hard left there is a good narrow trail that traverses back right through manzanita and young pines towards the Bear.
The beta photo on the right is now very wrong. Hopefully our dear administrators will delete it sometime.
Old approach beta that is only here for posterity:
From the switchback at the bubble, continue up the firetrail about 150 yards and look for a steep, loose trail leading up from the left side of the road (its not too obvious). There's a dead tree across the road from the road form the beginning of the trail, but it doesn't really stand out, so we figured we'd supply some pictures.Upon finding the trail, you have about a 5 minute pain in the ass hike up the steep, loose path until you come to the left-most end of the bear. The first climb you'll come to is Jeckyl & Hyde and then Rampage, which begins near the noticable tree. As you continue adjacent to the rock, the Chimney climb, Mark's Moderate is a very recognizable landmark if you become disoriented.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Bear
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season