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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 3,258 ft
GPS: 38.652, -122.611 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 32,836 total, 174/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jun 17, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The Bear is one of the highest areas on Mt. St. Helena, and it's name probably comes from the fact that it's a pain in the ass to get up to it. The climbing is on a large overhanging face and ranges from 5.9's to 5.12's. On the right side of the main face, there exists 3 second pitch routes that don't see much traffic. They can be approached from any of the climbs beneath because of the sizable ledge at their base. Finally, be a nice belayer and try not to lower climbers into the sharp trees beneath the climbs. Loose rocks above the second pitch climbs make it advisable to always wear a helmet at the base if any other groups are up top.

Getting There

Approach time: From the bubble: 5-10 minutes.From the road: 20 - 45 minutes.

(edit)
Per Dodrill's comment. There is now an excellent approach trail to the Bear. Continue up the fire trail maybe 1/4 mile from the bubble, going past the Bear looming above on the left. As the fire trail takes a hard left there is a good narrow trail that traverses back right through manzanita and young pines towards the Bear.

The beta photo on the right is now very wrong. Hopefully our dear administrators will delete it sometime.

Old approach beta that is only here for posterity:
From the switchback at the bubble, continue up the firetrail about 150 yards and look for a steep, loose trail leading up from the left side of the road (its not too obvious). There's a dead tree across the road from the road form the beginning of the trail, but it doesn't really stand out, so we figured we'd supply some pictures.Upon finding the trail, you have about a 5 minute pain in the ass hike up the steep, loose path until you come to the left-most end of the bear. The first climb you'll come to is Jeckyl & Hyde and then Rampage, which begins near the noticable tree. As you continue adjacent to the rock, the Chimney climb, Mark's Moderate is a very recognizable landmark if you become disoriented.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bear

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mark's Moderate
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arete (aka 3-Star Arete)
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kidnapped
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jekyll and Hyde
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rampage
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Hole Sun
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Napa Valley Party Service
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast of Burden
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Beast
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stone Free
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treasure Island
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill Uncle
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jason and the Argonauts
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mark's Moderate 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Silverado Squatters 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Kidnapped 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Jekyll and Hyde 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rampage 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Black Hole Sun 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Napa Valley Party Service 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Beast of Burden 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Beast 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Stone Free 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Uncle Tom 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Treasure Island 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Kill Uncle 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Jason and the Argonauts 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Bear »

Weather Averages

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(originally posted as condition report, adding as info so post remains after 3 months' time)

Approach details:
5-10 minutes up the fire road from Bubble Wall, on the left side of the fire road, there's a pretty low key-looking trail that cuts at a pretty shallow grade towards the Bear Cliff. 3 more minutes up the fire road, literally feet from the left side of the trail, there's a big set of brown rocks (50 ft tall) that are so tall they look like they should be bolted. If you've reached these, you've gone too far and should turn around. The trail that leads back to the Bear looks low-key from the road, but is actually well-maintained and wide enough where you don't need to do any bushwhacking.

Bolt details:
Pretty well-bolted, bolts seemed solidly in the wall. Many of the climbs have only hooks at the top... no hangers, no chains, no rappel rings... so it isn't possible (or perhaps just not advisable) to set up top-ropes on these.

Rock details:
The rock is really hard, but as of Spring 2017 some of the holds felt pretty hollow (down the wall, left of the chimney) and I could hear faint cracks when I weighted them. Grapefruit-size chunks (non-holds) were loose, ready to come out of the wall. Would recommend helmets anytime you're near the wall. Mar 20, 2017
Watch out for rattlesnakes!
Almost climbed over one by polar bear spire! Dec 13, 2016
flapper  
Left Ray Ban Wafarer's hanging on a bush near Rampage 02/21/2016! Please message me if you find them. Feb 22, 2016
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
Updated approach beta: Please don't use the nasty erosion slope approach. Walk another couple hundred yards up the road (you will pass the cliff), and watch for the trail to your left that takes you casually to the crag. Nov 26, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
You can get up and down every route at the Bear with a 50m rope. May 5, 2008
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
The Bear gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In winter it's best to climb in the sun all morning then go to the Bubble, satellites, or Crystal Pockets when it gets shady and cold. In summer the hike can be brutally hot but The Bear is great all afternoon, after 2:pm, until dark. Don't forget a headlamp for the hike down. Bring more water than you think you will need. It gets cold when the clouds rolls in. Bring a wind shirt or jacket.

Bear GPS: N38.39.120 W122.36.657 elev:3258' Feb 19, 2006
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
Um... perhaps i should have written 250 yards up from the bubble. Also, the dead tree is gone, but you can identify the steep start to the trail by the roots on the right side of the beta pict that facilitate getting up the really lose and steep part. May 1, 2004

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