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Elevation: 3,258 ft
GPS: 38.652, -122.61094
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 83,813 total · 318/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jun 17, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

The Bear is one of the highest areas on Mt. St. Helena, and it's name probably comes from the fact that it's a pain in the ass to get up to it. The climbing is on a large overhanging face and ranges from 5.9's to 5.12's. On the right side of the main face, there exists 3 second pitch routes that don't see much traffic. They can be approached from any of the climbs beneath because of the sizable ledge at their base. Finally, be a nice belayer and try not to lower climbers into the sharp trees beneath the climbs. Loose rocks above the second pitch climbs make it advisable to always wear a helmet at the base if any other groups are up top.

Rock is also chossier the further to the right you go: belayers should always wear helmets.

Getting There Suggest change

Approach time: From the bubble: 5-10 minutes. From the road: 20 - 45 minutes.

(edit)

Per Dodrill's comment. There is now an excellent approach trail to the Bear. Continue up the fire trail maybe 1/4 mile from the bubble, going past the Bear looming above on the left. As the fire trail takes a hard left (i.e. turns from east to NNW on the map) there is a good narrow trail that traverses back through manzanita and young pines towards the Bear. If you reach Looney Tunes, you've gone too far.

The beta photo on the right is now very wrong. Hopefully our dear administrators will delete it sometime.

Old approach beta that is only here for posterity:

From the switchback at the bubble, continue up the firetrail about 150 yards and look for a steep, loose trail leading up from the left side of the road (its not too obvious). There's a dead tree across the road from the road form the beginning of the trail, but it doesn't really stand out, so we figured we'd supply some pictures.Upon finding the trail, you have about a 5 minute pain in the ass hike up the steep, loose path until you come to the left-most end of the bear. The first climb you'll come to is Jeckyl & Hyde and then Rampage, which begins near the noticable tree. As you continue adjacent to the rock, the Chimney climb, Mark's Moderate is a very recognizable landmark if you become disoriented.

44 Total Climbs

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Location: The Bear Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bear

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 42
Mark's Moderate
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Bear Fingers
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 62
Arete (aka 3-Star Arete)
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 108
Silverado Squatters
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 74
Kidnapped
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
Jekyll and Hyde
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 102
Rampage
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 47
Black Hole Sun
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 57
Beast of Burden
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
The Beast
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 18
Stone Free
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 15
[Redacted]
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Treasure Island
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 21
Kill Uncle
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
Jason and the Argonauts
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mark's Moderate
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Bear Fingers
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Arete (aka 3-Star Arete)
 62
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Silverado Squatters
 108
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Kidnapped
 74
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Jekyll and Hyde
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rampage
 102
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Black Hole Sun
 47
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Beast of Burden
 57
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Beast
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Stone Free
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
[Redacted]
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Treasure Island
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Kill Uncle
 21
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Jason and the Argonauts
 14
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Bear »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: East · Southeast
Sunny Roughly 9am to 2pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: Aspect is somewhere between east-facing and ESE-facing. In early September, the wall was fully shaded starting around 3pm, which is around when I hopped on Rampage. Right side gets shade first.

Weather Averages

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