Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jerry Dodrill, Eric Berghorn
Page Views: 2,283 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Start at a wide flare and do a big reach up and right to the first bolt. A few reachy moves through jugs takes you to the second bolt. Avoid the blocks off to the right. Continue up, trending left past a total of five bolts, a few hidden jugs, and a big finish to anchor chains above a ledge.

Protection

5 bolts to chains

Location

This line is at the left-most edge of the cliff. It shares the first two bolts of Jekyll & Hyde and Bear Fingers, then continues left where J&H breaks right and up over a bulge.

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.10c
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10c
For me it was definitely harder than Silverado Squatters. Oct 4, 2010
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Super fun. There are some money jugs on the the way up. Feels safe. The hardest part for me was pulling the ledge up to the anchors. May 26, 2015
AT 5'8", there are a couple spots on this climb where the moves felt insecure due to how long they were. Its a bit thin between the first and second bolt. It took me a bunch of tries to get between the 5th bolt and the anchors. Followed the pockets more or less straight up and then super reached to slopers straight overhead to get over the hump. Nov 15, 2015
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
 
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
 
Seems to have been re-bolted after the fire, or otherwise largely undamaged.

Definitely not a gimme for your short friends, but thoughtful movement to reach the jugs will see them through. Easy to get off route, saw someone go the wrong way at basically every move today. Apr 30, 2018