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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jerry Dodrill, Eric Berghorn
Page Views: 2,210 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Start at a wide flare and do a big reach up and right to the first bolt. A few reachy moves through jugs takes you to the second bolt. Avoid the blocks off to the right. Continue up, trending left past a total of five bolts, a few hidden jugs, and a big finish to anchor chains above a ledge.

Protection

5 bolts to chains

Location

This line is at the left-most edge of the cliff. It shares the first two bolts of Jekyll & Hyde and Bear Fingers, then continues left where J&H breaks right and up over a bulge.

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.10c
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10c
For me it was definitely harder than Silverado Squatters. Oct 4, 2010
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Super fun. There are some money jugs on the the way up. Feels safe. The hardest part for me was pulling the ledge up to the anchors. May 26, 2015
AT 5'8", there are a couple spots on this climb where the moves felt insecure due to how long they were. Its a bit thin between the first and second bolt. It took me a bunch of tries to get between the 5th bolt and the anchors. Followed the pockets more or less straight up and then super reached to slopers straight overhead to get over the hump. Nov 15, 2015
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
 
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
 
Seems to have been re-bolted after the fire, or otherwise largely undamaged.

Definitely not a gimme for your short friends, but thoughtful movement to reach the jugs will see them through. Easy to get off route, saw someone go the wrong way at basically every move today. Apr 30, 2018

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