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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jerry Dodrill 2003
Page Views: 2,900 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Feb 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Big moves between jugs on overhanging rock describe this route, which climbs up the steepest part of the cliff. Start left of the tree stumps at the base of an obvious left-leaning crack. Avoid the blocks out left, climbing directly up solid yellow and white quartzite up to and over the roof. Finish up the finger crack to the cold shut anchor (option: step right at the last bolt of Rampage). The crux is above the second bolt. A good warm up.

Protection

5 bolts if you go direct to anchor.
6 bolts if you finish to right on Rampage.

MUCH LOOSE ROCK WAS CLEANED AFTER THE FIRE. ALL BOLTS AND THE ANCHOR WERE REPLACED IN FEBRUARY 2018. IT SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO, BUT BE CAREFUL!

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
One of the best routes of it's grade around, lots of fun. May 5, 2008
Floyd Hayes
  5.10b
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10b
Below the little overhang I moved left, which provided a wee bit of a "rest," then back right again to surmount the overhang. Oct 4, 2010
Eric Wilkins
  5.10a/b
Eric Wilkins  
  5.10a/b
This was a fun route and a nice warmup. There are a couple holds that are starting to loosen and some previous climbers had used chalk to mark them with an X. Either way there are so many jugs on this route that the loose holds weren't required. Feb 4, 2013
anthony509 Excelsior
las vegas nv
 
anthony509 Excelsior   las vegas nv
 
Sharpest rock I've touched May 16, 2013
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
This is really fun. The bolts are close together, and every move is there and then some other jug. The only exciting bit was realizing that larger pieces of rock were moderately mobile while going up it. Be careful leaving the first bolt, one of the triangular shaped jug rocks will move on you. Wouldn't be surprised if this fell off in the next few months. Belayers - wear a helmet! There is choss near the top! :) May 26, 2015
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
  5.10+
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
  5.10+
Easy to accidentally link into rampage. Maybe this is due to the fire damage, but I found pulling the move after the big undercling to be at a stand-out level of difficulty compared to kidnapped, maybe even rampage.

Fun route either way! Apr 30, 2018

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