Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jerry Dodrill 2003
Page Views: 3,014 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Feb 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


73 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Big moves between jugs on overhanging rock describe this route, which climbs up the steepest part of the cliff. Start left of the tree stumps at the base of an obvious left-leaning crack. Avoid the blocks out left, climbing directly up solid yellow and white quartzite up to and over the roof. Finish up the finger crack to the cold shut anchor (option: step right at the last bolt of Rampage). The crux is above the second bolt. A good warm up.

Protection

5 bolts if you go direct to anchor.
6 bolts if you finish to right on Rampage.
ALL BOLTS AND THE ANCHOR WERE REPLACED IN FEBRUARY 2018. 

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
One of the best routes of it's grade around, lots of fun. May 5, 2008
Floyd Hayes
  5.10b
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10b
Below the little overhang I moved left, which provided a wee bit of a "rest," then back right again to surmount the overhang. Oct 4, 2010
Eric Wilkins
  5.10a/b
Eric Wilkins  
  5.10a/b
This was a fun route and a nice warmup. There are a couple holds that are starting to loosen and some previous climbers had used chalk to mark them with an X. Either way there are so many jugs on this route that the loose holds weren't required. Feb 4, 2013
anthony509 Excelsior
las vegas nv
 
anthony509 Excelsior   las vegas nv
 
Sharpest rock I've touched May 16, 2013
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
This is really fun. The bolts are close together, and every move is there and then some other jug. The only exciting bit was realizing that larger pieces of rock were moderately mobile while going up it. Be careful leaving the first bolt, one of the triangular shaped jug rocks will move on you. Wouldn't be surprised if this fell off in the next few months. Belayers - wear a helmet! There is choss near the top! :) May 26, 2015
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
  5.10+
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
  5.10+
Easy to accidentally link into rampage. Maybe this is due to the fire damage, but I found pulling the move after the big undercling to be at a stand-out level of difficulty compared to kidnapped, maybe even rampage.

Fun route either way! Apr 30, 2018