Avg: 2 from 8 votes
Routes in The Bear
|Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 85 ft|
|Page Views:||654 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||caughtinside on May 4, 2008|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionWayne's World, a great movie in it's day but not a great route! I was tempted to bomb it such was my hatred, but my parter liked (!!) it (on toprope of course!) so I gave it a star.
It's on it's own separate tower at the Bear crag. The start is ok, off vertical delicate moves that feel like slab moves, but you're pulling on sharp positive sidepulls and sanding on small pointy feet.
Pull a bulge after 2nd bolt, and wander up some low angle gully for a bit. The bolt line felt contrived to me through here, even though I hate calling things contrived.
On to the upper wall, I again stayed right of the bolt line. From the ground, you may spy a quicklink on the 7th bolt. I suspect this may be a semi-permanent bail feature because it's where things get downright nasty. There is a shallow pocket, a small roof, and another pocket up higher and to the left. How you connect these features is a mystery to me, I couldn't find any feet that would stick and ended up pulling through on the draw. Things ease a tad up higher, but the climbing is still thin and difficult.
Maybe I just want to bomb it because it was called .10b/c in the guide I had, which it is definitely not. I don't know if it is .12a, (EDIT: Changed to .11b/c with info from FA) but the move is very thin and difficult. There are several red scars around the crux, so key holds may be gone.
Party time? Noooot!
Excellent? As if!