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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Eric Berghorn
Page Views: 654 total, 6/month
Shared By: caughtinside on May 4, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Wayne's World, a great movie in it's day but not a great route! I was tempted to bomb it such was my hatred, but my parter liked (!!) it (on toprope of course!) so I gave it a star.

It's on it's own separate tower at the Bear crag. The start is ok, off vertical delicate moves that feel like slab moves, but you're pulling on sharp positive sidepulls and sanding on small pointy feet.

Pull a bulge after 2nd bolt, and wander up some low angle gully for a bit. The bolt line felt contrived to me through here, even though I hate calling things contrived.

On to the upper wall, I again stayed right of the bolt line. From the ground, you may spy a quicklink on the 7th bolt. I suspect this may be a semi-permanent bail feature because it's where things get downright nasty. There is a shallow pocket, a small roof, and another pocket up higher and to the left. How you connect these features is a mystery to me, I couldn't find any feet that would stick and ended up pulling through on the draw. Things ease a tad up higher, but the climbing is still thin and difficult.

Maybe I just want to bomb it because it was called .10b/c in the guide I had, which it is definitely not. I don't know if it is .12a, (EDIT: Changed to .11b/c with info from FA) but the move is very thin and difficult. There are several red scars around the crux, so key holds may be gone.

Party time? Noooot!

Excellent? As if!

Location

Right most route on the Bear, kind of on a separate tower.

Protection

9 bolt to chain anchors.

Photos

stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Did this route for the first time a few days ago. Rope solo onsight (well as close as you can get with a soloist tying knots) Grade seemed to be easy to mid 11. I thought it was an OK route. Thanks Eric. Reach high and right for a suspicious hold, then crimp to the undercling, and span left. Nov 4, 2010
Cam Parry
Angwin, CA
 
Cam Parry   Angwin, CA
 
I'd agree w/the .11b/c rating - 2 years ago I had noted .11a, but after getting on it again yesterday b/c feels more appropriate. Slipped once at the crux, pulled through clean the 2nd time. I personally enjoy this route - very different climbing than the rest of the bear (rest of the mountain for that matter - most similar to Satellites (the prow)), nice long varied pitch with the business toward the end. May 26, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Hi Eric, thanks for the info, I made a few changes to the route entry. I left in that I thought it was .12 to show the world what a weenie I am and keep my ego in check. That move is hard and devious! When I got to the crux and saw the rock scars I figured it was really a 'holds broke old guidebook rating' sandbag, thanks for confirmation. May 6, 2008
Eric Berghorn
Calistoga,CA
  5.11b/c
Eric Berghorn   Calistoga,CA
  5.11b/c
Wayne's World, named in memory of a family friend who passed away tragically in 1998 while I was installing the route.(I'm quite fond of the film as well !) Anyways, as the route author interested in getting consensus on the grade I think 5.11 b/c is closer 10 years after it went up. I'm in total agreement the 5.10 b/c is inaccurate today after holds you mentioned (red streaks) are gone. . . making the climb harder. Somebody installed the bail link to lower off the 7th bolt a few years ago. In order to make lowering-off safe from there I added a bolt with a link creating a sub-anchor. (I feel the climb is 5.10- up to the sub-anchor.) As with Bodysnatcher,the first ascent experience was not a permanent one (an unfortunate side affect of the route cleaning up.) May 6, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
You can just barely get down with a 50m rope with a little rope stretch so watch those ends. May 5, 2008