Type: Sport, 85 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Berghorn
Page Views: 1,342 total · 11/month
Shared By: Eric Berghorn on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Details

Description

P1- Start by climbing up a 5.7 featured stemming corner for about 25 feet, gaining a good stance on top of a small ledge. From there you can clip the first of 11 bolts, moving straight up through a buldging head wall replete with awkward liebacking on hidden holds. There are a couple of ways you can go when climbing through the overhanging first section of the route. The most direct option is 5.11 a/b.

P2- Gain the low-angled sloping ledge clipping the optional rappel/belay anchor above it. If climbing the route in one pitch continue straight up past more 5 bolts climbing carefully above the mid-anchor into a steep, awkward corner slightly right of the bolt line. Be careful here as you are climbing above a ledge out of view from your belayer. The 5.11d moves are protected, however, too much slack here could result in a ledge fall. Powerful moves combined with thin awkward face climbing lead to some good pockets/jugs and a decent rest before tackling the crux. After a good rest stance above the crux, the top section eases off slightly but offers some thoughtful moves on yet another vertical section before a good ledge and the anchor are reached. Use long slings when appropriate to reduce rope drag if climbing the route in a single pitch.

Location

Route starts by climbing 25 ft. up into the alcove just left of the obvious Bear Crack route. 1st bolt is clipped from a good stance just down and right from the start of steep lie backing/face climbing on grayish black rock.

Protection

11 bolts, with an optional mid-point lower off anchor above initial 5.11a overhanging face.

Photos

Cam Parry
Angwin, CA
  5.11d
Cam Parry   Angwin, CA
  5.11d
You can rap off from the top anchors to the ground with a 50 meter, but just barely. A 50 easily makes it to the starting point from where you can down climb the last 3-4 meters to the ground. Stiff, sustained, and bouldery after the midway anchor. Jun 3, 2010
Eric Berghorn
Calistoga,CA
  5.11d
Eric Berghorn   Calistoga,CA
  5.11d
Condition Report. This route was inspected for damage following the October 2017 Firestorm. All the essential CLIMBING holds and hardware were intact 1/31/18. This route experienced spalling as result of fire’s effect and some loose rock as suggested above is still apparent, even after the winter rains of 2019. I still enjoy the movement experienced on this route and the position high on the cliff is very dramatic. At times I have found myself to be of the minority in this opinion, hence now giving a two-star rating as appropriate ! Jan 31, 2018
Jamie Collins
Bay Area, CA
  5.11c
Jamie Collins   Bay Area, CA
  5.11c
Climbed this on Saturday and I'd have to disagree that the route is 100% intact. There's still lots of loose rock on the first pitch -- the entire arete to the right of the bolt line is crumbling away and there are tons of loose 1/4" flakes across the rest of the face. It will clean up with time, but just be prepared for a lot of loose rock. 6 days ago