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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Berghorn
Page Views: 1,171 total · 11/month
Shared By: Eric Berghorn on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

P1- Start at the base of "Kodiak" (below the "Bear Arete" climbing route) Scramble up a low angle corner for about 25 feet, gaining a good stance on top of a small ledge. From there you can clip the first of 11 bolts, moving straight up through a buldging head wall replete with awkward liebacking on hidden holds. There are a couple of ways you can go when climbing through the overhanging first section of the route. The most direct option is 5.11 a/b.

P2- Gain the low-angled sloping ledge clipping the optional rappel/belay anchor above it. If climbing the route in one pitch continue straight up past more 5 bolts climbing carefully above the mid-anchor into a steep, awkward corner slightly right of the bolt line. Be careful here as you are climbing above a ledge out of view from your belayer. The 5.11d moves are protected, however, too much slack here could result in a ledge fall. Powerful moves combined with thin awkward face climbing lead to some good pockets/jugs and a decent rest before tackling the crux. After a good rest stance above the crux, the top section eases off slightly but offers some thoughtful moves on yet another vertical section before a good ledge and the anchor are reached. Use long slings when appropriate to reduce rope drag if climbing the route in a single pitch.

This climb experienced the loss of some foootholds as a result of spalling from the October 2017 Firestorm. The start of the “2nd pitch” is more awkward than ever right off the belay with some hard to read sequences... It now feels (as of 1/31/18) that an overall grade of 5.12a when lead as single pitch to the top is appropriate.

Location

Route starts by climbing 25 ft. up into the alcove just left of the obvious Bear Crack route. 1st bolt is clipped from a good stance just down and right from the start of steep lie backing/face climbing on grayish black rock.

Protection

11 bolts, with an optional mid-point lower off anchor above initial 5.11a overhanging face.

Photos

Eric Berghorn
Calistoga,CA
  5.12a
Eric Berghorn   Calistoga,CA
  5.12a
Condition Report. This route was inspected for damage following the October 2017 Firestorm. All holds and hardware are intact 1/31/18 Jan 31, 2018
Cam Parry
Angwin, CA
  5.11d
Cam Parry   Angwin, CA
  5.11d
You can rap off from the top anchors to the ground with a 50 meter, but just barely. A 50 easily makes it to the starting point from where you can down climb the last 3-4 meters to the ground. Stiff, sustained, and bouldery after the midway anchor. Jun 3, 2010

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