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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Rances Rodriguez
Page Views: 567 total, 19/month
Shared By: Caliza on Jul 13, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The hardest line in the Vineyard. Essentially a 25 ft V7. Shares the first 2 bolts with Brazin then bears left climbing into the two perma-draws. fVery powerful and sequential crux on small holds guard the anchors. Possibly 5.12c if you use the knee to mitigate the crux, first ascensionist did not use knee bar. Best in afternoon shade.

Location

On the right overhanging wall in the Vineyard. From the Bear walk 15 to 20 feet left of the 5.10 warm ups to the 3rd class scramble opposite the downhill trail before the knoll. The anchors of Brazin can be seen shining between the trees up above the scramble from below.

Protection

4 bolts in total, last 2 are perma-draws, to mussy hook (left anchors on steep wall).

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Caliza
 
Caliza  
 
I definitely will have to, I did not use a knee bar anywhere. Nice job. Nov 24, 2015
Vlad S
  5.12c
Vlad S  
  5.12c
To be clear the left knee bar is right in the middle where you'd clip the 3rd bolt (first permadraw). It splits the route nicely into a 5 move V5 and a 4 move V5/6 and allows you to switch hands and shake out. Cool route! Bring a magnifying glass! Nov 15, 2015
Caliza
 
Caliza  
 
The second ascent, Vlad, ended up using a feature out left as a knee-bar, which I didn't use, making getting through the crux easier. He feels that with the knee-bar out left it's 12c, and if you don't use it, it's harder. Nov 14, 2015