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Routes in The Bear
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Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kodiak S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smash n Grab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft |
| FA: | Mark Howe (2000) |
| Page Views: | 767 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Jun 3, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017
Details
PLEASE AVOID ST. HELENA FOR NOW. THE RECENT FIRES HAVE DECIMATED THE ROCK AND POTENTIALLY THE BOLTS. (10/23/17)
See the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=472 for current park closure information, or the MP forum discussion mountainproject.com/forum/t… for the latest on climbing impacts.
See the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=472 for current park closure information, or the MP forum discussion mountainproject.com/forum/t… for the latest on climbing impacts.
Description
The Bear Arete is the right-most climb on the second pitch of the bear. The climb is pretty straight-forward until the second bolt, where it seems that there are plentiful holds to the right, yet they don't go anywhere. Conversely, there are a few less generous holds on the left that will have to suffice. I don't know if we did it right, but we did an up-and-left dyno after the third bolt... it was tough and weird, but fun none-the-less. My main complaint about the route was the lack of traffic it has seen. There was a bunch of loose rock that we knocked off, and moss that covered many important grips and decreased their utility. This also caused the grips to be chock-free, which made the climb seem harder, and more confusing, but more interesting as well!
Photos
- No Photos -
Oakland, CA
Calistoga,CA
Oakland, CA
Oakland, CA
1) No dyno necessary, but the crux is still tricky with crumbly feet. I agree with Eric about the ~11c suggestion.
2) There are now 4 bolts leaving ground level that lead into what I had known as the Bear Arete. They follow a seam past another 5.11 section that was quite fun and on solid rock. We did the whole route as 1 pitch, and found our 60 meter rope was long enough to lower us to the 4th class ledge that starts this version of the climb.
2.5) Clipping the 4th bolt on the ground start will significantly add to rope drag up top. The climbing between the 4th bolt and the anchors of the original Bear Arete is about 5.4, so skipping the bolt may improve your comfort later on. May 11, 2009
Bodega, CA