Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Karl Guthrie, Joe Schwartz and Jordy Morgan (1986)
Page Views: 1,593 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 29, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Located just left of the Mark's Moderate chimney/crack in the center of the Bear, this arete has some really fun moves with big holds on steep rock. After the third bolt, the climb moves onto the crystal-filled face to the left of the arete. Don't know why it doesn't have a name, but it deserves one.

Protection

Four bolts lead to a two bolt anchor with chains. A little sling is nice for the first bolt.

Photos

- No Photos -
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10b
Bring a 2 foot draw for the first bolt or expect your rope to get chewed on. Nice route. Nov 15, 2009
Dan Austin
San Francisco, CA
Dan Austin   San Francisco, CA
Very fun climb, definitely deserves a name and hopefully is not overlooked for the lack of one! And yeah, an extendable on the first bolt is a pro tip. Sep 8, 2013
Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
In Jim Thornburg's Bay Area Rock this is called "3-Star Arete". The guidebook also shows five bolts before the anchors, but MP is correct--there are only four. Fun climb! Apr 13, 2014
Thue Madsen
San Francisco, CA
Thue Madsen   San Francisco, CA
While climbing a few other routes yesterday at the bear, my partner climbed the arete and told that the fourth bolt is a pretty loose button head with the hanger spinning. Also the anchor was very rusty. Nov 29, 2016
Mike Horan
San Francisco, CA
 
Mike Horan   San Francisco, CA
 
Maybe I did it wrong, but I found the moves going out left onto the face slightly harder than 10b. It's like a 3 move sequence a little ways above the horn. It's super well-protected though. Sep 28, 2017
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.10b/c
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.10b/c
MUCH LOOSE ROCK WAS CLEANED AFTER THE FIRE. ALL BOLTS AND THE ANCHOR WERE REPLACED IN MARCH 2018. IT SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO, BUT BE CAREFUL! Mar 8, 2018