Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Karl Guthrie, Joe Schwartz and Jordy Morgan (1986)
Page Views: 1,466 total, 9/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 29, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Located just left of the Mark's Moderate chimney/crack in the center of the Bear, this arete has some really fun moves with big holds on steep rock. After the third bolt, the climb moves onto the crystal-filled face to the left of the arete. Don't know why it doesn't have a name, but it deserves one.

Protection

Four bolts lead to a two bolt anchor with chains. A little sling is nice for the first bolt.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mike Horan
San Francisco, CA
 
Mike Horan   San Francisco, CA
 
Maybe I did it wrong, but I found the moves going out left onto the face slightly harder than 10b. It's like a 3 move sequence a little ways above the horn. It's super well-protected though. Sep 28, 2017
Thue Madsen
San Francisco, CA
Thue Madsen   San Francisco, CA
While climbing a few other routes yesterday at the bear, my partner climbed the arete and told that the fourth bolt is a pretty loose button head with the hanger spinning. Also the anchor was very rusty. Nov 29, 2016
Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
In Jim Thornburg's Bay Area Rock this is called "3-Star Arete". The guidebook also shows five bolts before the anchors, but MP is correct--there are only four. Fun climb! Apr 13, 2014
Dan Austin
San Francisco, CA
Dan Austin   San Francisco, CA
Very fun climb, definitely deserves a name and hopefully is not overlooked for the lack of one! And yeah, an extendable on the first bolt is a pro tip. Sep 8, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10b
Bring a 2 foot draw for the first bolt or expect your rope to get chewed on. Nice route. Nov 15, 2009