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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 542 total, 5/month
Shared By: caughtinside on May 4, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Old and In the Way... where to start? Might as well be at the first bolt. The first bolt is tricky and delicate to clip, that big chalked up rail is sadly not as good as it looks. Holding on with one hand with grim feet is a challenge.

But the action starts right after you make the clip! Those grim holds get worse as you move up, feet are surprisingly tough to come by and the holds above are small and distressingly far.

I'll come clean. I led this climb, but it wasn't clean. I A-Zeroed the crux by pulling on the first draw. The old guide says .11c, but I couldn't pull the move so I'm speculating with the .11c. The rest of the climb is much easier, maybe mid .10 with a fun mantle move on the blob at the 3rd bolt.

Very different in character from the other crag .11c Beast of Burden.

Location

Right of the chimney in the center of the crag, first route right of Black Hole Sun. Left of Bear's Choice.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

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I really enjoy this route. The start gets you going and then it lightens up a bit. The position of the route is enjoyable and transferring from the ledge, around the arete to the gently overhanging face is quite cool. Give it a go! Dec 21, 2016
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
This crag breeds rating squabbles like a hydra sprouts heads, and I'm afraid I'll add my 0.02 to the boredom. The start feels like 5.11+ to this fat boy. Far harder movement than anything encountered on Beast of Burden. Of course, if you're a crimp happy featherweight, I could see how it feels trivial. Yes, I can think of some 5.11- climbs with moves as hard, but we generally agree to call those sandbags. Apr 29, 2016
Caliza
  5.11-
Caliza  
  5.11-
Probably the only bad route at the Bear, but I hear the stuff to the far, far right isn't that good either. 5.11a or soft 5.11b. Jun 11, 2015
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I finally did this with Jerry's beta from Jonathan. I suppose this might feel like a soft 11 to someone accustomed to 10 ft routes on the damp side of a boulder. For me, the first bit is harder than anything on stone free or the other 12As on the cliff. But I'm an endurance climber. Dec 28, 2012
steple
  5.11a
steple  
  5.11a
The crux is only two moves short. The crimps are small but sharp. Soft 5.11 I say. The rest of the route is much easier - but very enjoyable! I found no chalk marks and a loose hold. Apr 2, 2012
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
 
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
 
It's not THAT hard. One Crimp and its over. 5.11b.

The climb is the second route RIGHT of the chimney, between Black Hole Sun and Bear's Choice, in other words: RIGHT of BHS and LEFT of Bear's Choice.

Amen. May 14, 2008