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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Howe, 1998
Page Views: 1,330 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 29, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Theodore Roosevelt starts from a two-bolt anchor above the first pitch of Mark's Moderate, but left of the Mark's Moderate anchors. The climb wanders up some slab before pulling a small bulge and then finishes on easier climbing. The anchors are about 20 feet back from the edge of the bear on a right-facing piece of rock.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is a long way above the 5th bolt, but the climbing to it is ~5.4. Long sligs will also be useful if you top-rope this route. You can walk off towards the crystal pockets area (see area overview map) or rappell twice.

LOTS of LOSE ROCK UP TOP! Bring helmets and be aware of people at the base of the Bear.

Photos

Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.9
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.9
Follows the left gray streak over a bulge or two. Hidden pockets on excellent rock. Watch out for some gravel at the anchor. A good route. Sep 8, 2010
Floyd Hayes
  5.9
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9
From the base it looks low angle and easy, but it's steeper, more sustained and harder than it appears. I didn't think it was runout. The stud of a hangerless bolt protrudes a few feet to the left of the second bolt. The fifth bolt looks new, but it is placed beside a solid crack that could take a small cam. I carried along some cams but didn't need any. Be careful at the top--I nearly popped when a handhold broke just above the final bolt. Oct 4, 2010

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