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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: (?)
Page Views: 1,703 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Feb 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description [Edit]

This is the crack at the left end of the cliff. Clip the first two bolts of Kidnapped/Jekyll and Hyde and follow the finger/thin hand crack diagonally up to the left over a bulge to Kidnapped's chains on a ledge.

This route may have been climbed a long time ago. I climbed it in 1996 and put in the anchor in 2003.

Protection [Edit]

Two bolts, and a few cams, 1"-1.5"

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steple
  5.10a/b
steple  
  5.10a/b
This goes on gear only. A bigger piece like a 3" for the lower part, smaller cams from .3" to 1" for the finger crack. Sep 9, 2012
grabski
N California
  5.10a
grabski   N California
  5.10a
Steeper than it looks like at first. Definitely goes on all gear. I used mostly small mastercams. Largest piece I placed was #1 C4. Not many good nut placements unfortunately. The pro is there, but not straight-forward. Be suspicious of the cracks around the large block system 1/3 up the climb. Jun 27, 2016
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
  5.10a
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
  5.10a
This route is even more fun if done on gear only, as suggested in the Bay Area Climbing book. A 2" and 3" piece protected the lower part for me, but I can imagine not using them if I fiddled around a bit. The block grabski referred to was flat out detached when I stepped on it. Be careful up there. Aug 19, 2016

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