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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: (?)
Page Views: 1,656 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Feb 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the crack at the left end of the cliff. Clip the first two bolts of Kidnapped/Jekyll and Hyde and follow the finger/thin hand crack diagonally up to the left over a bulge to Kidnapped's chains on a ledge.

This route may have been climbed a long time ago. I climbed it in 1996 and put in the anchor in 2003.

Protection

Two bolts, and a few cams, 1"-1.5"

Photos

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Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
  5.10a
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
  5.10a
This route is even more fun if done on gear only, as suggested in the Bay Area Climbing book. A 2" and 3" piece protected the lower part for me, but I can imagine not using them if I fiddled around a bit. The block grabski referred to was flat out detached when I stepped on it. Be careful up there. Aug 19, 2016
grabski
N California
  5.10a
grabski   N California
  5.10a
Steeper than it looks like at first. Definitely goes on all gear. I used mostly small mastercams. Largest piece I placed was #1 C4. Not many good nut placements unfortunately. The pro is there, but not straight-forward. Be suspicious of the cracks around the large block system 1/3 up the climb. Jun 27, 2016
steple
  5.10a/b
steple  
  5.10a/b
This goes on gear only. A bigger piece like a 3" for the lower part, smaller cams from .3" to 1" for the finger crack. Sep 9, 2012