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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Summit, Jordy Morgan, 1997
Page Views: 953 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on May 14, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details


A powerful, bouldery start with tricky footwork takes you through three bolts and the crux before easier, blocky terrain above.

Holds have been broken off at the start of this route. Originally rated .12a, it is quite a bit harder now.


Third route right of major chimney.


Five bolts to chains. Shares anchor with NVPS


Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
Not sure if the route has changed more, but I was at The Bear a few weeks ago and saw a couple of guys who advertised themselves as 11b climbers send this after thinking that they were projecting Old and In the Way. That day it became the first 12 ever for all three of us, and I got it on my third burn, so I can't imagine that it's more than a 12a? Start is hard, but with clever foot beta the moves aren't impossibly strenuous. Aug 19, 2016
Eric Destefanis
Eric Destefanis  
We did it with a friend this weekend, and agreed that it was a good 11d/soft 12a. There could be a new hold broken that made this, but the boulder seems to be ~v4 followed by a 5.8/9, doesn't sound enough for a 12b. Dec 7, 2015
There are two ways to do this climb; first way is to find the hidden crimp/jug far right of the first bolt avoiding the direct start then traversing in around the second bolt. I think this way is 12a. The second way is to do the direct underneath the first bolt, this way is full-on till you get to the third clip where the 5.9 begins. I think this way is 12b. Dec 10, 2013
So part of the rock on the climb broke revealing a nice edge above the heal-hook jug at the start in the shape of a nice crimp/big foothold for when going to the 3rd clip-jug up above. I would say the climb probably is no harder than 12a now; maybe even easier. Aug 15, 2013
Vlad S
Vlad S  
Burly and very fun boulder problem (about V5) between 2nd and 3rd bolt leads into 5.9 climbing above on this one. I don't know what broke here before, but it didn't feel much harder than 12b. The boulder problem revolves around kicking your left foot into a high heel-hook, making a long reach to an undercling and pulling hard. 3 more sequency moves end at a jug by the 3rd bolt. May 24, 2013
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
Drunken one,
A key hold broke last year, so you have some climbing to do. Its harder now. :-) Dec 1, 2009
santa rosa, cali
drunkenmaster   santa rosa, cali
when i did the probable fa on tr i rated it 5.11d/5.12a and called it Polaris after a megadeath song and because it is white like polar ice. then Jordy bolted it for lead and cleaned a few loose holds making it harder - more like 5.12a or b - and without knowing i had named it he gave it the name Bears Choice. it is not any harder than 5.12b at most. i just did it a few years ago and unless something else has broken then i have no idea how it got the 5.12+ rating. if any route on the bear is close to 5.12+ it is Jason and the Agronauts 5.12c ish. if it is that hard now then shit im psyched to do it again! Nov 13, 2009
Ian G.
Ian G.   PDX, OR
Seeing that this route is now 12+ makes me feel a little better. I flailed for so long on the boulder problems crux. It's short, but the movement is good. It would be a burly lead (did it on TR). May 3, 2009

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