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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 918 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Jan 11, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the obvious diagonal undercling crack left of Waynes World, joining and crossing that route then continuing straight up the crack to the top of the cliff. Belay and rappel from bolts/slings in a corner.

Location

On Waynes World formation, East of main Bear Cliff.

Protection

Gear: cams to 3.5" Clip a bolt or two on Waynes World. Rappel.

Photos

you can lead a variation of this climb, avoiding the lower curved crack, by clipping the bolts for Wayne's World and one on Just Bearly, then placing one 3" cam in the crack at the steep crux. fun long route and worth doing. 5.8

Oct 3, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.8 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8 PG13
Leading the lower part of the initial undercling crack is spooky, it feels like it could pop off when you pull back on it--presumably inspiring the name "Guillotine Crack" (which I like more than Ursa Minor). I clipped three bolts connecting the lower crack and the upper crack. I didn't think the upper crack was any harder than the lower crack and thought both crack sections were solid 5.8 and easier than 5.9. The length of the climb was about 90 feet including the initial traverse; lowering or rappelling off a 50-meter rope might not make it to the bottom. Aug 30, 2010