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Routes in The Bear

Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bear Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Cub Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear's Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beast of Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beast, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Body Snatcher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brazin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grigio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Argonauts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jekyll and Hyde S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Bearly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kidnapped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Uncle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kodiak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark's Moderate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Moonshine S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Napa Valley Party Service S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old And In The Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Ghost S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Polar Bear Spire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rampage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silverado Squatters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash n Grab S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swallow My Pride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Theodore Roosevelt (aka Teddy Bear) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Treasure Island S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Tom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayne's World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jerry Dodrill, Jim Lundeen, 1996
Page Views: 1,068 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 3, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The top of this route is a little run out, and the rock is sharp enough that a 20 foot fall wouldn't be fun.The crux is either after the 2nd bolt or the 3rd bolt, depending on how tall you are.

I would recomend that you avoid the temptation to go right on the flake after the 3rd bolt. Instead, keep going up, and you'll see the next bolt a little past a bulge.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Nice going Jerry, this is a terrific route. Different feeling from the rest of the .10s at the crag in that it is more sparsely bolted. The moves are all there though, just clip that third bolt, head up over the bulge and go get it. May 5, 2008
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.10c
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.10c
This route now has it's own cold shut anchor, making it MUCH better and less runout up high. You might want an optional finger sized piece of gear still. -Nah, just go for it. :-) May 1, 2007
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.10c
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.10c
Jekyll and Hyde was a route I bolted with Jim Lundeen back in the days when people took gear to the cliff (1996). Finger sized aliens or TCUs take the R rating out of the grade. The original finish for this route and Rampage were to top out on the ledge via a finger crack (small TCU) where you will still find the old anchor, two fat Metolious rap hangers. Feb 19, 2006