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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines, Dec., 2007, First Lead: Todd Gordon & Frank Bentwood, Aug., 2009
Page Views: 1,269 total, 10/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Dec 17, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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28 Opinions

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Description

Climb the face between Tarawassie Wiggle and Plain But Good Hearted. More sustained than Tarawassie Wiggle with a string of novel moves.

Protection

5 bolts, pro to 1 inch. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Phil Esra  
 
Seemed plenty clean. Fun moves. A tightly squeezed-in line, but legit. Dec 4, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Its seems the rock may have worn away as this seemed harder than Sweat Band to us. Mar 9, 2015
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Easy climbing up to the break where a good 0.75" or 1" cam can be placed in a horizontal just down and left from the first bolt. Once on the wall proper the climbing is well-protected with a definite crux getting to the 3rd bolt in the lighter colored rock.

Fun climbing but the rock quality is not the best and it seems likely the climb will only get harder as the rock at the crux wears away with more traffic. Feb 13, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
After scrambling to the first bolt on easy ground the route is engaging and definitely has your attention. Somewhat of a squeeze job but you don't really use any of the crack or holds from it's neighbor to the left. The upper 1/3 gets your attention and has some thought provoking moves. A nice addition to the area, nice line and fun climbing. Thanks guys! Dec 4, 2011
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.10a
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.10a
Fun route, pretty easy for the grade, but good nonetheless. It is now feeling pretty clean especially for the area. Nov 20, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Fun route. And a notch easier than Sweat Band. Very well protected. Mar 31, 2010
Joe Brophy
San Diego
Joe Brophy   San Diego
A fun climb but still a bit loose. Took a fall around 3rd bolt when a hold broke off. That area is a little grainy. Mar 16, 2010