Mountain Project Logo

Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, 2007
Page Views: 558 total · 5/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Dec 14, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Begin about 15 feet right of Plain But Good Hearted and face climb up to a 5 foot long vertical crack (1.5 to 2 inches pro), traverse left (5.8, almost touching Plain But Good Hearted) then climb straight up a dike on a slab (5.7 R) to a crack (3 to 4 inch pro), then climb the slab above to join Plain But Good Hearted at it's crux upper section (2 to 3 inch CDs).

Protection

1.5 to 4 inches.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.7 R
C Miller   CA  
  5.7 R
Sorta fun climbing up a vertical face to slabby rib and then finish up the steep face climbing of Plain But Good Hearted.

Did a toprope variation of this route near the top by stemming onto the main face at a vertical seam and making a few thin moves past a cool two finger pocket to join Leaving Las Vegas just past the 3rd bolt - it seemed about 5.10a or so. Feb 13, 2012
Bob Gaines  
 
You can wimp out and place some pro in Plain But Good Hearted, but you'll get severe rope drag. Dec 15, 2008