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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jay Smith, Robert Finley & Rondo Powell, December 1988
Page Views: 1,831 total, 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Given the same rating as Sweat Band in most guidebooks but it seems a little more difficult. Some tricky moves up steep rock at the start give way to balancy, sporty moves on a slab higher up. A 2.5" piece can be placed in a horizontal crack after the last bolt to lessen the runout to the anchors.

Typically given fewer stars than Sweat Band in most guides but the steeper, more varied climbing make this a better route IMO, and one to check out if in the area. Three stars out of five.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the south face.

Protection

4 bolts to a bolted anchor, a 2.5" piece is helpful after the last bolt.
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Take a wrench, first bolt's nut is about 3/4 of the way off the stud and won't hand tighten, making the clip a PITA since it's a spinner. You can certainly place gear behind the flake (2 camalot), and I did, but it wouldn't do anything other than blow the hollow flake off the wall if you fell on it. Double bolt/ring anchor on top (don't be distracted by the random single bolt nearby that's back from the edge a bit) Nov 21, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Very cool! First bolt has a loose nut which I hand tightened. Fourth bolt is buttonhead + leeper hanger combo. Suggest additional gear, .5 + #1 camalot for upper section. Dec 12, 2008
tom donnelly
san diego
 
tom donnelly   san diego
 
I placed a nut just above the old 4th bolt to back it up,
and a few other cams along the way. Good climb! Dec 10, 2007
tony grice
  5.10c
tony grice  
  5.10c
Good by mister bond was fun, kinda soft if yer callin it 10d. Cool moves down low. 4th bolt needs some love, the moves above it are easy enough. Dec 24, 2005
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The first three bolts are 3/8" and decent, but the last bolt is a 5/16" buttonhead with a Leeper hanger. A 1.25" piece may be placed in the large flake between bolts three and four (not terribly confidence inspiring) as well as a 1" piece and/or 2.5" piece in the horizontal after the last bolt. All bolts should be upgraded to 1/2" due to the rock quality (or lack thereof) and steepness (at the bottom).

The first bolt is a ways up off a small shelf, so a spot may be prudent prior to clipping it. Nov 4, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Not as good as Sweat Band in my opinion. Oct 23, 2003