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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Beck, Dave Tapes (aka Dave Wonderly) & Alan Nelson, December 1982
Page Views: 1,095 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 26, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Run up easy but unprotected slab to the base of a headwall where the real climbing starts, fire in some good wires and launch up the featured face above. The climb wanders around a bit finding the best gear placements and holds and near the top peters out into unprotected (but easier) face climbing. Perhaps a little spicy but adequately protected for those solid at the grade. Two stars out of five.

Location

Right side of the south face between Sweat Band and Plain But Good Hearted.

Protection

Gear to 1.5" including many wires, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

Bob Gaines
  5.10a
Bob Gaines  
  5.10a
One of my favorites. 10a to lead, 5.9 on a toprope. The runnout at the top is probably 5.8 R. Dec 17, 2007
TraiseB
  5.10a
TraiseB  
  5.10a
This is an awesome route! I just led it for the first time last month. Just make sure you have LOTS of small to tiny brass stoppers on your rack! I also had some small aleins and cams. The pro was pretty good until the exit move which, although pretty easy, was scarey to run out on a brass nut! Let's just say I got my arenaline rush for the day.I could see adding a bolt at the top, but I didn't get the first ascent. None the less, I thought was awesome and I would like to do it again. By the way, you do use all removeable gear, but it is mainly excellent face climbing. Mar 1, 2004
One more comment: this route takes small wires all the way; and they're bombers if you take the time to place them well. It's a great route for learning to place the tiny guys. Also, make sure you have a good piece in before you start the traverse; you've a way to go. Nov 21, 2003
Bill Briggs and I climbed this route recently. We both felt it was overrated. Bill felt 5.9; and I,leading, felt 10a. It's a great route; and,with the exception of the traverse at the top, easy to protect. Mar 12, 2003