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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Daniel, Kat Green, Tim Pinar, Brett Pinar, Rhesa Ashbacher, Aaron
Page Views: 891 total, 10/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 3, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located at the top of a corridor which is left of King Ottos Castle. Phelp's Chevrolet is located at the upper left side of the corridor, and has one bolt down low, which leads to a small roof and a thin crack. Anchors visible on top. Short but good climbing.

Location

On a formation left of King Otto's Castle.

Protection

small to med gear.

Photos

en.r
Long Beach, Ca
en.r   Long Beach, Ca
Todd told us about this one when we were climbing another route. We scrambled around back and set up a TR on the anchor. Some balancing moves at the start, up to an undercling, pull some roof, then work some crack to the anchor. Awesome!!! Dec 27, 2012
Gritty, nasty rock for most of the climb, questionable pro, powerful roof. What the heck - I'll give it two stars for "character" Dec 23, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Great job, Matt;...it's a "full value" lead for 5.9;.....keeping the grade honest. Not a give-away 5.9. Oct 19, 2012
Matt Rauch
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9 PG13
Matt Rauch   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9 PG13
Cool moves and variations on this route. Short but good for late afternoon shade as we hit this after work. The route is still pretty grainy and I almost came off when my left foot hold broke off while I was making the move over the roof. Awesome. Be sure to get a #2 cam in the crack above the roof before trying to finish the move. It's blind placement but the spot will eat the piece. If you don't you'll face serious deck potential if you come off during the move. It was a tricky lead but could be real fun on TR. Oct 18, 2012
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
  5.9+
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
  5.9+
This thing is fun and you can scramble around back and TR this as well. This would be a super hard lead I think becuase of the fact that I would to put a cam right were my hands go to pull under the roof. Nice job Todd. Aug 23, 2011