Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd McMasters, Bruce Linton, and Bob Vinnacombe, March 1977
Page Views: 1,757 total · 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Easy climbing at the bottom leads to a wider crack in the middle then positive but somewhat runout face climbing on large rounded holds. Best to be solid at the grade for maximum enjoyment on this route. Two stars out of five.

Location

Protection

Gear to 4", bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Kelly  
If you like to crack climb, you won't enjoy the run out face at the top. Jun 28, 2003
Carol
5.6
Carol  
5.6
agreed with Kelly. as a conservative and petite climber, I felt getting to the face up top was a bit PG.

also found a couple larger pieces helpful (camalots #3.5 and #4). Dec 15, 2003
My girlfriend tried this as one of her first leads. Bad idea. The crux is funky and not very well protected. If you are a new leader and not confident running it out on 5.6, this route is not for you. Aug 18, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
The "Runout" face moves are all there big time. Super solid. But for beginners..........might be better to avoid this until they get their head on right..........otherwise for the rest of us........this thing is fun. The move from the crack to the face is pretty damned cool for a climb of this rating...... Nov 28, 2004
Ryan Avery
  5.6
Ryan Avery  
  5.6
Wierd Pro to say the least. For extra fun, lead it with only hexes and couple smallish cams. I think there were a total of two good pieces of pro on this one. Not your usual runout face for Josh as it was not so frictiony and more "5.6 edging".

Worth doing if you are in the area and solid at the grade. Jan 26, 2005
David C. Burke
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
David C. Burke   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Saving a #1 Camalot for the face is helpful. There is a pocket on the face about halfway through the run out that fits a #1 Camalot pretty well. I agree that this would not be a great first lead for someone trying to build confidence with their traditional climbing. Mar 1, 2007
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
The crack is solid but ends in a run out face to the anchors. The protection is light and sketchy from the ground to the crack. Solid pro in the crack.

Bring larger #2-3 cams. Feb 1, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.6
C Miller   CA  
  5.6
It's possible to get a decent offset cam (3.5") in a flared pod about halfway from the end of the crack to the anchors. Feb 13, 2012
Phil Esra  
 
Quite fun for this grade. A fun mix of techniques on good rock. The face moves at the top get easier as they get further above the pro, but it's undeniably run out. Skip it if that strikes fear in your heart. Dec 4, 2016
Bob Klaas
Long Beach, CA
  5.6 PG13
Bob Klaas   Long Beach, CA
  5.6 PG13
This route is a really fun and offers a lot of variety. The first 15 feet of the climb is easy slab climbing but offers little protection. As you get higher, you will start finding ample protection opportunities leading up to the vertical crack. Once you enter the crack, the protection is all there and the climbing gets really fun; everything from jams, mantles, and some easy wide moves lead you to the top of the crack. Once the crack ends, place your best piece(s), get your head right, and commit to the face. @Locker is right. The face moves are all there. I saw one opportunity to protect the face. The pod that @David and @CMiller reference is there. An offset would be ideal however a #1 should be enough "mental pro" to keep you moving. The anchor is in good shape. Two bolts w/rap rings.

In my opinion, the PG13 rating is really subjective based on the following. (1) The gear the leader takes with them and how they use it. (2) The leaders lead head. I delayed climbing this route due to the PG13 designation. In doing so, I delayed the enjoyment of a really fun route. If you're confident in your ability and comfortable at the JTree grade...don't delay, just send it today!

(Perspective From a Relatively New Leader) Nov 5, 2018