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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd McMasters, Bruce Linton, and Bob Vinnacombe, March 1977
Page Views: 1,576 total, 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Easy climbing at the bottom leads to a wider crack in the middle then positive but somewhat runout face climbing on large rounded holds. Best to be solid at the grade for maximum enjoyment on this route. Two stars out of five.

Location

Between Leaving Las Vegas and Shaken Not Stirred.

Protection

Gear to 4", bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Phil Esra  
 
Quite fun for this grade. A fun mix of techniques on good rock. The face moves at the top get easier as they get further above the pro, but it's undeniably run out. Skip it if that strikes fear in your heart. Dec 4, 2016
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
It's possible to get a decent offset cam (3.5") in a flared pod about halfway from the end of the crack to the anchors. Feb 13, 2012
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
The crack is solid but ends in a run out face to the anchors. The protection is light and sketchy from the ground to the crack. Solid pro in the crack.

Bring larger #2-3 cams. Feb 1, 2009
David C. Burke
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
David C. Burke   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Saving a #1 Camalot for the face is helpful. There is a pocket on the face about halfway through the run out that fits a #1 Camalot pretty well. I agree that this would not be a great first lead for someone trying to build confidence with their traditional climbing. Mar 1, 2007
Ryan Avery
  5.6
Ryan Avery  
  5.6
Wierd Pro to say the least. For extra fun, lead it with only hexes and couple smallish cams. I think there were a total of two good pieces of pro on this one. Not your usual runout face for Josh as it was not so frictiony and more "5.6 edging".

Worth doing if you are in the area and solid at the grade. Jan 26, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
The "Runout" face moves are all there big time. Super solid. But for beginners..........might be better to avoid this until they get their head on right..........otherwise for the rest of us........this thing is fun. The move from the crack to the face is pretty damned cool for a climb of this rating...... Nov 28, 2004
My girlfriend tried this as one of her first leads. Bad idea. The crux is funky and not very well protected. If you are a new leader and not confident running it out on 5.6, this route is not for you. Aug 18, 2004
Carol
5.6
Carol  
5.6
agreed with Kelly. as a conservative and petite climber, I felt getting to the face up top was a bit PG.

also found a couple larger pieces helpful (camalots #3.5 and #4). Dec 15, 2003
Kelly  
If you like to crack climb, you won't enjoy the run out face at the top. Jun 28, 2003