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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Tony Grice, Feb 2008
Page Views: 1,431 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Feb 7, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin by climbing Sweat Band to the second bolt. When your feet are just above the second bolt, traverse straight left past a bolt (10+) over to the seam on Panama Red. Make a tough move to gain the fourth bolt (11-) then follow the seam (10+) up to easier face climbing past 2 more bolts to the top.

Location

Although this link-up only involves about 15 feet of new climbing, the entire pitch has a lot of great face climbing. It's a tough lead, but easy to TR off the Sweat Band anchor. Best conditions are the coldest days, as the sun bakes this south-facing cliff.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 80 ft.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
"Da Bomb" That is really funny, Bob. Nice use of an old double entendre. Sep 1, 2013
Bob Gaines  
 
Good work Shelby and KP!! Jul 19, 2013
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
KP and I upgraded that anchor last night Bob. Jul 18, 2013
Bob Gaines  
 
Don't think I've ever seen a route get the full spectrum from four stars to a "bomb" rating.

I guess either way you look at it, this route is "da bomb!"

Still one of my favorites in the Indian Cove Campground- fun to toprope, but a demanding lead.

Those chains at the top anchor are getting very rusty....time to fix up that anchor. Jan 30, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.11a PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a PG13
Be careful clipping the traverse bolt as a fall will likely land you on the slab below; clipping the 3rd bolt on Sweat Band with a long sling, downclimbing and then doing the traverse is more involved but safer.

Good rock and some fun moves on the traverse but it really should have been left as a toprope. One star out of five. Feb 13, 2012
caughtinside,

Bob edited the route info and subsequent comment to reflect the truer nature of the traverse, from 30ft to 15ft. Dec 4, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Not sure why this needed a new bolt, but the 15' traverse is indeed the best climbing on it. Traverse itself is about 5.10-, once you get to the white rounded edge/seam at the end of the traverse (i.e. Panama Red) the rock quality goes a tad funky and the crux shows up. Cold conditions will help with the rounded sidepull(s) on sloping grain where it joins P.R. Not even close to the "best route in the CG", not even the best route on this block IMO...but tastes differ I suppose. This one tastes like a contrived link up that avoids the best parts of both routes it links. YMMV. Nov 28, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Did this one again the other day to see what you guys saw...

The traverse isn't 30', more like 15, on nice patina edges after doing 10 feet of sweat band, then a finish on panama red. The traverse is indeed the best climbing on the route, but that 15 new feet doesn't make it the best route in the CG by a long shot in my opinion. Nov 28, 2010
Choncho  
Very nice pitch. No giveaway either. Nov 22, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
So the route is a one bolt link up? Maybe that was my problem, we were trying to stay independent of Panama Red I think... Agreed that the 12' of new climbing was on good rock. Oct 3, 2010
Dave M Snyder
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Dave M Snyder   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Great route Bob. I've done it a few times. Really good movement. Not a squeeze job at all. Like you said...you added a bolt to join 2 routes...and the climbing between them is good. Feb 8, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Sorry Bob. I think you really forced one here. No way no how is this a 3 star route. 1 max. Dec 15, 2008
Bob Gaines  
 
The only tough clip is the third bolt. Besides the traverse, all of the climbing (and bolt clips) are on previously existing routes: Panama Red (which gets 3.7 stars on mountain project) and Sweat Band (2.5 stars). The traverse consists of an incredible series of edges, on some nice patina, across one of the steepest sections of King Otto's south face. I'll admit it's contrived, but it's also very fun. Dec 14, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Poor route. Squeezed in and a contrived bolt line. Clips are hard because the good holds are on existing and adjacent routes. Dec 12, 2008
Bob Gaines  
 
You're right Chris, there was one bolt still there, I believe it was the second to the last bolt (which would be the fifth bolt on the route) which was good to go. Jun 3, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.11a PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a PG13
There should have been one bolt already in place on Panama Red (near the top) which I placed about 1998 or so. Jun 3, 2008
Bob Gaines  
 
Hey Duke: you can call it a squeeze job, but essentially its a traverse between two existing routes. You clip the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverse almost straight left over to Panama Red. The last three bolts are on Panama Red in the same spots as the chopped bolts. (It had been previously bolted, then chopped, many years ago) I did my best to patch the ugly scars and craters that existed from the result of whomever did the chopping- it wasn't pretty.

Climb the route before you dis it! Dave Mayville did the second ascent and he thought it was great. Jun 3, 2008
OMG - squeezius maximus!!Might as well rap bolt Panama Red while your at it. Jun 2, 2008
Bob Gaines  
 
The third bolt is a tough clip, so be ready. I clipped it with my left hand.

While there are probably no moves harder than 10+, the traverse is sustained, and the move to the fourth bolt is tricky, so 11a overall.

One of my favorite face pitches in Indian Cove Campground. Feb 7, 2008