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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: Alan Nelson 3.23.87
Page Views: 2,715 total, 15/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jul 30, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Panama Red runs up the dark desert patina between Quivering Savages and Sweat Band. Scramble up the initial slab to the base of a right-arching seam on the headwall. A ladder of steep, positive crimps runs up the seam and the face above. Originally a top-rope problem, it was retrobolted into a sport route in the early '90s by some of my compatriots as I stood watch on the summit. Alas, this so offended a local (who had no involvement or history with the route) that he chopped it back to a toprope. Thus, goes another stupid battle in the bolt wars. Anyone interested in re-equipping the route has my blessing (I'll even subsidize the hardware). Otherwise, I'll take care of the task myself next time I'm in the area. Steep, continuous, fingery, positive climbing on bulletproof stone: it doesn't get much better than this. Definitely worth a lap after running up Sweat Band.

Protection

Top-rope from the bolt anchor above Sweatband.

Photos

^^^ lots of talk for an anonymous coward.

Great climb, very sharp, and sustained from the first horizontal until the upper jugs. IMO the crux was getting established on the face/seam after the horizontal crack. Dec 23, 2012
I just don't get that. If you don't have to make holes, why would you? Like you've never lead a bolted 11c before.Preservation ought be king in this time of increasing #'s at the crags and in natural areas in general.

In my mind there are enough bolted lines in J-tree as it is. Let's keep and maintain those.

We, as rock climbers don't realize how good we've got it. I know more than one non-climber who was astonished at how much access we have in places like J-tree. "I can't believe they let people climb all over these rocks" one friend said.

In our own little microcosm of climbing we feel limited. But in the grand scheme of things we have a lot of freedom and must use some restraint to keep it. Even in the short time I have been climbing regulation has increased in many areas. -J-tree has camping restricions. -The gunks has increased their user fee and limited parking. -Open soace in Boulder CO, is going to become more expensive and restrictive. -Red rocks camping is heavily regulated and expensive.

All of these restrictions make me want to keep a tremendously low profile.It should make you want to do the same.Bolting a route that has been toproped for years and has neighboring bolted climbs and a mellow traditional climb via which to reach the anchors, seems real silly.

Just my .02.Or was it .03? Peace out you Californians. Oct 9, 2004
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Should definately be bolted. It is regretable that some people get worked up about bolting this line, but don't let that stop you. Oct 13, 2003
D.I.R.T  
I would agree. There is no reason this route should not be bolted. If you need a lookout or someone to swing a hammer, let me know. Oct 12, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Having climbed this route several times I feel confident in saying this is without a doubt the best line on the wall. Were it bolted (which it should be) it would see steady traffic as it offers continuous steep funk climbing which epitomizes Josh. Dec 14, 2002