Description

King Otto's Castle is a large imposing formation directly behind some campsites with numerous routes from 5.7 to 5.12 on it's south and west faces. Face climbing is primarily the name of the game here but a few decent cracks exist as well.

Due to it's location remember to be courteous and ask before climbing here if the campsites are occupied.

Some of the better routes here include Sweat Band (5.10c), Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c), Casino Royale (5.11a) and Panama Red (5.11c TR).

Location

Located in the center of the campground directly across the road from Condor Rock.

16 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: King Otto's Castle Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at King Otto's Castle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 17
Tarawassie Wiggle
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Leaving Las Vegas
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 45
Sweat Band
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Goodbye Mr. Bond
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Casino Royale
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Panama Red
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tarawassie Wiggle
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Leaving Las Vegas
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sweat Band
 45
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Goodbye Mr. Bond
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Casino Royale
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Panama Red
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in King Otto's Castle »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Approach through family site 31. Jan 3, 2003
Chris Collins
Quincy, California
Chris Collins   Quincy, California
What is the bolted route between Panama Red and Sweat Band? It uses the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverses up and left to a third bolt, then onto the seam of Panama Red. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Jan 5, 2011
Hi Chris:

That route is called Casino Royale (5.11a), and its listed here on Mountain Project. Jan 5, 2011