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King Otto's Castle Rock Climbing
Routes in King Otto's Castle
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Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Quivering Savages S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sweat Pants T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wait What's My Name TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Who T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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| Elevation: | 3,200 ft | 975 m |
| GPS: |
34.0924, -116.1569 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 24,251 total · 84/month | |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jun 21, 2002 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
King Otto's Castle is a large imposing formation directly behind some campsites with numerous routes from 5.7 to 5.12 on it's south and west faces. Face climbing is primarily the name of the game here but a few decent cracks exist as well.
- Due to it's location remember to be courteous and ask before climbing here if the campsites are occupied.
Location
Located in the center of the campground directly behind campsite #31 and across the road from Condor Rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at King Otto's Castle
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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