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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Ohlsen & Jon Lonne, 1978
Page Views: 700 total · 4/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Jul 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Corridor Crack is the overhanging fissure found in the corridor formed by the east side of King Otto's Castle. It is about 45 feet right of Plain But Good Hearted. You can't miss it on the left side when you walk into the corridor. Insecure overhanging finger slots to a hand jam. Then it eases off to being just hard up the vertical crack to the top. Ouch!


Standard rack. The crack takes a fairly good spectrum of sizes from small to large.


Dave Ohlsen and I did the first accent of this crack in 1978. We gave it a rating of 5.11d/12a because of the difficulty of the opening moves. This is an unbelievably strenuous climb to be rated 11b, especially if you lead it. We named it Black Max. Mar 28, 2006
I attempted this route yesterday and it is stout. 11d/12a seems closer to the mark, compared with other Josh routes. I would write my failure off to my own weakness, but I've sent some other 11+/12- routes at Josh and I watched a couple of other hardmen who I know climb way, way harder than 11b fail on this thing--and we were toproping it at the end of the day!

Big props to Jon and Dave for putting this up (in '78 !?!). Very, very impressive. It would be a proud lead, as your first decent piece of pro is above the crux...

I don't often tape, but for this route you will need a good tape job or the callouses of a blacksmith. Nov 25, 2007
Bob Gaines
Bob Gaines  
Black Max is probably 12a for the onsight leader, and you better tape up for this one, due to the sharp/rough rock!
Lon Lonne and Dave Olsen's ascent in 1978 was one of the most difficult leads in America at the time (Wailing Wall in Tuolumne was heralded as one of the first 5.12 leads in America in 1975!) Dec 15, 2008

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