Sweat Band [Suggest Change]

A fairly good climb, but personally I prefer Goodbye Mr. Bond further left which offers better moves at the same grade. Dec 14, 2002

I seldom feel a route in JT is overrated; however,I and my partner,Bill Briggs, both felt "Sweatband" should be rated 5.10a/b. Mar 12, 2003

10a/b sounds about right. Will not be 10c in next guide. Jun 7, 2003

For what it's worth, I led it again a couple of weeks ago and went straight for the bolt at the crux instead of moving right and reaching out to clip with my left hand. It is most definitely a 10c if done this way. This may be why it was originally rated b/c. I have no idea what the immediate terrain beyond would be like because as I was reaching out to clip the rock goddess had another plan for me. Dec 8, 2003

Good route. Soft for 10c. Not memorable enough to warrant three stars. Goodbye Mr. Bond was more entertaining IMHO. Aug 25, 2004

cool climb! Nov 28, 2004

The bolts on this route were replaced by me, and while it may have been efficacious to move certain bolts to better locations I chose not to and simply replaced them as they were. No bolts were added, simply replaced. Nov 29, 2004

Thanks Chris, that's about what I expected. Nov 29, 2004

If Chris said he replaced it, he replaced it. Be that as it may, the times I led it, I placed a firm cam in the horizontal and clearly didn't notice the old bolt. I was probably to the right of it a bit. It's easy to see now because of the white chipped area around it. Locker and I both thought it odd. It's also about knee level above the crack. So put it on your death list Murf. Nov 29, 2004

I think for shorter sorts 10c fits......... Dec 6, 2004

I wasn't impressed with this route at all. Interesting moves at times but I forgot it as soon as I rapped off. Good bye Mr. Bond is way better. Either way, the heckling tourons at the base really bug me anyway. Indian Cove is best saved for a week day with no boy scouts or other objectionable sorts yelling "Use your feet!" to thier fellow "climbers". Jan 26, 2005

no way is this climb a bomb..........how in hell did you come to that conclusion Ryan A.?........... May 12, 2005

Sweat band is awsome at 10c. whoever added the last bolt needs a raise. great route. easy climbing to first bolt. Dec 24, 2005

Don't let any of these guys fool you.....10c for sure. Easier than Pet or meat but solid for the grade. Shame on you Randy for downgrading. Just because it's bolted doesn't mean it's soft!

~Susan Oct 28, 2006

Susan -- We've done this route several times, including last year. If you climb to the right of the bolts it is far easier than trying to climb up by them. While I understand Chris replacing the bolts were they were originally, they are not in the appropriate places for leading the route. It may have been rap bolted? Oct 28, 2006

If you're really flexible and can high-step to your waist at the crux...maybe 10b, for stiff folks maybe 10c. More secure/less tenuous than most off-vertical Josh face routes of similar ratings. Couldn't really argue with either rating. Nov 26, 2007

I would've given this 4 stars but for the approach slab which is a little out of character with the rest of the climb - hence marring the continuity/purity. But it's a wonderful face climb, nice and intricate, and quite steep at the top, and the rock is beautiful. I'm tall so 5.10b seems fair, but if you're shorter it's probably 5.10c.

Bolts 2 and 3 are in odd placements but perhaps the original placers wanted a straight line to avoid drag? I don't know. I'm not going to give any other beta though. Feb 1, 2009

I'm 5'9, and I thought this felt 10c. It is definitely harder than Las Vegas to the right. The second clip is annoyingly out-of-reach from the obvious clip stance too. Great movement, despite the poor bolt placements. Mar 31, 2010

Whatever, about all the grades and bolting. It's a great climb. Dec 3, 2012