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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 2,146 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Unprotected but easy climbing up a slab leads to a break and the first bolt about 30' up where the angle steepens and the difficulties begin. A comitting stand-up move getting to the 3rd bolt is memorable as are the thin crux moves just below the 4th bolt, which is a tough clip. Once past the 4th bolt the climbing eases considerably and it's a cruise to the top.

Decent climbing on this but the bolt placements are less than ideal and falling at several spots on this route are best avoided. Two stars out of five.

Location

Right side of the south face between Panama Red and Tarawassie Wiggle.

Protection

6 bolts (all 3/8"), bolted anchor/rap (3/8", 1/2")
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
Whatever, about all the grades and bolting. It's a great climb. Dec 3, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
I'm 5'9, and I thought this felt 10c. It is definitely harder than Las Vegas to the right. The second clip is annoyingly out-of-reach from the obvious clip stance too. Great movement, despite the poor bolt placements. Mar 31, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
I would've given this 4 stars but for the approach slab which is a little out of character with the rest of the climb - hence marring the continuity/purity. But it's a wonderful face climb, nice and intricate, and quite steep at the top, and the rock is beautiful. I'm tall so 5.10b seems fair, but if you're shorter it's probably 5.10c.

Bolts 2 and 3 are in odd placements but perhaps the original placers wanted a straight line to avoid drag? I don't know. I'm not going to give any other beta though. Feb 1, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
If you're really flexible and can high-step to your waist at the crux...maybe 10b, for stiff folks maybe 10c. More secure/less tenuous than most off-vertical Josh face routes of similar ratings. Couldn't really argue with either rating. Nov 26, 2007
Randy
  5.10b
Randy  
  5.10b
Susan -- We've done this route several times, including last year. If you climb to the right of the bolts it is far easier than trying to climb up by them. While I understand Chris replacing the bolts were they were originally, they are not in the appropriate places for leading the route. It may have been rap bolted? Oct 28, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Don't let any of these guys fool you.....10c for sure. Easier than Pet or meat but solid for the grade. Shame on you Randy for downgrading. Just because it's bolted doesn't mean it's soft!

~Susan Oct 28, 2006
tony grice
  5.10c
tony grice  
  5.10c
Sweat band is awsome at 10c. whoever added the last bolt needs a raise. great route. easy climbing to first bolt. Dec 24, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
no way is this climb a bomb..........how in hell did you come to that conclusion Ryan A.?........... May 12, 2005
Ryan Avery
  5.10b
Ryan Avery  
  5.10b
I wasn't impressed with this route at all. Interesting moves at times but I forgot it as soon as I rapped off. Good bye Mr. Bond is way better. Either way, the heckling tourons at the base really bug me anyway. Indian Cove is best saved for a week day with no boy scouts or other objectionable sorts yelling "Use your feet!" to thier fellow "climbers". Jan 26, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
I think for shorter sorts 10c fits......... Dec 6, 2004
If Chris said he replaced it, he replaced it. Be that as it may, the times I led it, I placed a firm cam in the horizontal and clearly didn't notice the old bolt. I was probably to the right of it a bit. It's easy to see now because of the white chipped area around it. Locker and I both thought it odd. It's also about knee level above the crack. So put it on your death list Murf. Nov 29, 2004
Murf  
Thanks Chris, that's about what I expected. Nov 29, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The bolts on this route were replaced by me, and while it may have been efficacious to move certain bolts to better locations I chose not to and simply replaced them as they were. No bolts were added, simply replaced. Nov 29, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
cool climb! Nov 28, 2004
Good route. Soft for 10c. Not memorable enough to warrant three stars. Goodbye Mr. Bond was more entertaining IMHO. Aug 25, 2004
For what it's worth, I led it again a couple of weeks ago and went straight for the bolt at the crux instead of moving right and reaching out to clip with my left hand. It is most definitely a 10c if done this way. This may be why it was originally rated b/c. I have no idea what the immediate terrain beyond would be like because as I was reaching out to clip the rock goddess had another plan for me. Dec 8, 2003
Randy
  5.10b
Randy  
  5.10b
10a/b sounds about right. Will not be 10c in next guide. Jun 7, 2003
I seldom feel a route in JT is overrated; however,I and my partner,Bill Briggs, both felt "Sweatband" should be rated 5.10a/b. Mar 12, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
A fairly good climb, but personally I prefer Goodbye Mr. Bond further left which offers better moves at the same grade. Dec 14, 2002