All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Cam… > Indian Cove CG… > King Otto's Castle

Sweat Band

Name: Sweat Band
Rating: 2.7

5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in King Otto's Castle

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Quivering Savages S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sweat Pants T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wait What's My Name TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Who T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	34.0924, -116.1569
FA:	Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views:	3,750 total · 13/month
Shared By:	C Miller on Jun 25, 2002
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Easy but unprotected climbing up a slab leads to a horizontal break and the first bolt about 30 feet up where the angle steepens and the difficulties begin.

A committing stand-up move getting to the 3rd bolt is memorable as are the thin crux moves just below the 4th bolt, which is a tough clip. Once past the 4th bolt the climbing eases considerably and it's a cruise to the top.