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Routes in King Otto's Castle

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bridge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Casino Royale T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Date Queen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don Genaro Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaving Las Vegas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panama Red TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phelp's Chevrolet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plain But Good Hearted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shaken Not Stirred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sweat Band T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweat Pants T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarawassie Wiggle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 969 total, 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The obvious wide crack that splits the right side of King Otto's Castle's south face is a good exercise in basic OW technique due to it's angle and some face holds outside the crack. A little short and grainy but you could do worse.

Location

Right side of the south face between Plain But Good Hearted and Sweat Pants.

Protection

Gear to 4" (or larger if you feel the need)

Photos

Nick Hoffman
Toronto, Ontario
 
Nick Hoffman   Toronto, Ontario
 
This was a really fun climb, and agree that it's a good introductory offwidth.

I only used C4 cams: two #4, a #5, and a #6 (excluding the anchor). Be careful when climbing above your #6. First, there're no more placements for the next ~4m. Second, your #6 might walk deeper into the crack, open, and become unretrievable.

The descent is a walk-off behind the route. Jan 2, 2016
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
A nice entry level offwidth though I'd stay with the 7+ rating. Feb 19, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8
If you have the gear, and are in the neighborhood.... why not? It gets larger than a #6 camalot after half way, so I'd recommend bringing at least one of that size.

For the anchor up top you'll want some #3 and #4 camalots.

Hard for me to grade these thingys, but I think calling it 5.7 might be a bit of a sandbag. Mar 31, 2010
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Yeah, me too! Jan 16, 2010
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I agree with Bob on the 5.7 rating... Jun 8, 2008
Bob Gaines
  5.7
Bob Gaines  
  5.7
A "fun" offwidth. Footholds on the left wall make it easier than it appears. A good entry level offwith for those so inclined. Feb 10, 2008