Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,092 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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The obvious wide crack that splits the right side of King Otto's Castle's south face is a good exercise in basic OW technique due to it's angle and some face holds outside the crack. A little short and grainy but you could do worse.


Right side of the south face between Plain But Good Hearted and Sweat Pants.


Gear to 4" (or larger if you feel the need)


Bob Gaines
Bob Gaines  
A "fun" offwidth. Footholds on the left wall make it easier than it appears. A good entry level offwith for those so inclined. Feb 10, 2008
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I agree with Bob on the 5.7 rating... Jun 8, 2008
Yeah, me too! Jan 16, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
If you have the gear, and are in the neighborhood.... why not? It gets larger than a #6 camalot after half way, so I'd recommend bringing at least one of that size.

For the anchor up top you'll want some #3 and #4 camalots.

Hard for me to grade these thingys, but I think calling it 5.7 might be a bit of a sandbag. Mar 31, 2010
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
A nice entry level offwidth though I'd stay with the 7+ rating. Feb 19, 2012
Nick Hoffman
Toronto, Ontario
Nick Hoffman   Toronto, Ontario
This was a really fun climb, and agree that it's a good introductory offwidth.

I only used C4 cams: two #4, a #5, and a #6 (excluding the anchor). Be careful when climbing above your #6. First, there're no more placements for the next ~4m. Second, your #6 might walk deeper into the crack, open, and become unretrievable.

The descent is a walk-off behind the route. Jan 2, 2016